1 one cylinder

I wouldn't pull the valve cover unless your bored and have nothing better to do:cool:
What do u expect to see...
Maybe a pole dancer on one of the valve stems:eek:
Then yea I would remove it:D
 
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Well here's a video of my leak down on #4 cylinder...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_0wU-bCsfQ

Now mind you the lame Harbor Fright Leak down tester is not that great... I did not hear air from the tail pipe, no air pressure/sound from the Zenith intake with my hand over it, as well as no seeing bubbles coming from the radiator.... Seems the air was going down the cylinder and into the oil pan from the sound of it... Some have suggested that as my engine warms the valve increase in length in gap is not within spec to the push rod/tappet... Now if??? true, yeah, I've read that only adjustable push rods mght be a fix. If this is the issue...

Now looking for opinions on why/how and ignition would change when the engine warms up? I don'y know but surely all ears...


This thread kind of points to ignition issues:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70345

Many thanks
 
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Gee a long time, but Family (Wife's health) and work the past few weeks were a tad busy.. Anyway, I am looking at weak spark as my issue after the car warms up. A new condenser did not make a difference and so I replaced my coil which resulted in an even weaker spark on all four cylinders at idle --yes inserted a new problem. The coil claims to be fine for 6 Volt systems but is marked 12V clear like the transformer it is, has lower coil ratio than a by design 6 V --yes I did check the new coil polarity..

I noticed with my clear top distributor arcing at the points and some things I've read that points to the condenser. So I've restored my original 6 V coil and condenser and see where that goes... I also with 1000 grit sandpaper slightly cleaned my modern point set as the arcing clearly was built up.
 
Thanks Mitch, lots of things we're waiting for.. but she's dealing with MS and had a bone marrow test today to rule out something else. my Faith is not to accept this.

Anyway, farting around my car or trying to helps to take my mind off of that for bit and I need that..


The points arcing was induced by the new condenser. The clear distributor top and me looking at it knew that much arcing was not the normal with my car. I think that when the car is warm there is some issue related to spark. My only way is to drive it until it's really warm and backfires and pull over to see... I learning a few things...
 
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If you can't get it sorted out, I might suggest you go back to original points set up. FWIW


Prayers going out for your wife.

Paul in CT
 
Paul,

Thanks for the prayers, I know by experience they truly make a difference...

What I tried was a new coil and condenser. The new coil was labeled 12V was suppose to work for 6 Volt as well but clearly from size of the sparks from the rotor to the distributor body contact points to the plugs (yes I run a clear distributor cap) the coil was not putting out has much as the original one. I had the + and - side like that of the original coil and was thinking maybe the new coil was mislabeled so I reversed them --that was even worse so I think the polarity was labeled correctly so I return the original coil and the spark size was MUCH better but I noticed then a large amount of arcing at the points and searching threads and this:

http://www.grantmaclaren.com/terrystips/


This newbie figured, go back the the original condenser --that totally resolved the arcing at the points.. I took 1000 grit sand paper and very lightly cleaned the points. The standard things to check: timing --spot on, or lateral play in the distributor shaft --none. Also looked if there was any oil or things on the points that might cause a problem.. all were OK.

I still suspect that when the car is up to temperature, I'll have case of weak spark and a backfire... So there is but one way for know for sure, drive it until she does it and then see the spark size or maybe points arcing... Kind of bummer that trying a new coil and new condenser introduced more problems but I did learn somethings, so no true loss.

I still would like to rule out the coil and condenser but I have to get "good" parts. Given my distributor was a Ne-Rex, I will order one from them.

http://www.nurex.com/modern-condenser

nurex-022714-f5080-mod-cond.jpg


Still hunting for a true 6 Volt coil...
 
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I had an engine misfire badly on one cylinder and it was due to a new faulty distributor body. Aparently it was molded around a broken metal conductor. Try swapping distributor bodies.
 
CWPASADENA said:
I think you are OK.

It is possible #1 plug fouled and with a plug not firing, that cylinder will pass a lot of oil.

As stated before, check the points. When the points start to close up, you can loose ignition output and you may pick up a miss. Once a plug does not fire, it can foul and not fire until it is cleaned.

Also as stated by others, I would drive it and you may find everything is just fine.

My opinion,

Chris W.
Click to expand...


I know this is an old post, but I have this exact same issue. So, you're saying that if the plug is fouled bad enough oil get s in the cylinder? How does that happen? I was thinking maybe I have bad rings. Maybe not?
 
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