1 Fly wheel 2 PP thread bad

V8COOPMAN said:
Anthony.....I want you to understand that I have NOT been trying to bust your chops in this thread. I just don't want to see you damaging your stuff, or end-up injured in any way. I've just spent better than an hour trying to verify that ARP part number, although that 150-2201 is the one that I tentatively jumped on initially. The problem is that ARP doesn't seem to list specific application info as far back as our flatheads. Those 150-2201 bolts "look" about the right size, BUT...…….! Those -2201 ARP bolts' actual dimensions are 5/16"-18 thread, with an overall length of shank UNDER the head (shoulder AND threads) of 0.780". So, how long are the shanks on your current bolts...UNDER the head?


I see where it looks like Kube may be attempting to find you a GOOD flywheel. Isn't your engine an 8BA-type ('49-'53) engine? If so, the replacement flywheel MUST be a matching 8BA-type. DON'T let anyone tell you differently!! 8BA f'wheels can be identified by the six bolt holes being drilled all the way through the flywheel. Earlier f'wheels have "blind" holes….NOT drilled all the way through to the opposite side. You need to stipulate WHICH type of flywheel you need.


If I had a spare wheel layin'-around, I'd send it your way for the freight. Unfortunately, I DON'T have one layin'-around, but I'll bet half a dozen guys reading this thread have a decent one layin' in a corner, never to be used again, that could sell or donate to your cause for the freight cost. So, what type of flywheel you got, and what is bolt shank length of your six original bolts? And just to be sure, will a common 5/16" "coarse"-threaded bolt thread into one of the undamaged, threaded holes? DD
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DD, I’m an old fart w very thick skin & been around a long time mostly in groups where if u can’t take the heat get outa the kitchen:). U’ve been very helpful on quite a few of my posts! I know ur style & personality at least from many of ur posts replies! Really didn’t take it wrong & understood u points & tried to add a bit of humor to indicate I was fine w the busting chops, I do it all the time. I call it “Telling them to go to hell but trying to make them enjoy the trip”;)! Obviously info from reply’s heeded on my part. While I do consider myself frugal :) while researching solutions regardless of my reply’s I add the collective info to the ole computer.

Now, the info Yes engine is an 8BA, shank length r 1”, threads r 5/16”-18
No harm no foul!
 
Hey Anthony - so you're looking for a 49-53 flywheel with a 10" LONG style clutch pattern? If so, I will look out in my shop and I'm sure I have one or more.

Be happy to send you one for the price of shipping . . . or you can drive to Columbus, OH and I'll hand it to yah. We're not that far apart - though the "time factor" always comes into play. Let me know - happy to help out.

Note: It should be resurfaced and balanced with your clutch plate (is what I'd do).
 
Thx Bored&Stroked & much appreciated but I started networking during the thread & found one locally thru a Mechanic friend, guy in a his Car Club & is donating :). I’ll join the club as thx to him! But Big Thx for ur very generous offer! As networking typically works another guy in the club owns a local automotive Machine & Fab shop who can do the surfacing, probably balancing too, but that I have to check. Thx again for the offer!!
 
Well Sheeeit! Is this place cool, or what? Ain't that B&S guy about as righteous as it gets? Damn straight! DD
 
DD just to close on the bolts, I found NOS Ford PP bolts on EBay from I guy I’ve bought from before & trust!-NOS Ford flathead 1932-56 V8 special clutch pressure plate bolt set (6)
 
Anthony, I've never installed a clutch, so I'm out of my league, but from info I've picked up here on the Barn, the balancing should be done on the complete assembly of flywheel/clutch disc/pressure plate.
Beyond that, I'm glad you've decided to heed advice to not modify your flywheel with Helicoil or Keensert. They are used in Aerospace Gov spec applications, however I'm not sure of those products certified usage with shoulder bolts.
 
AnthonyG said:
Thx Bored&Stroked & much appreciated but I started networking during the thread & found one locally thru a Mechanic friend, guy in a his Car Club & is donating :). I’ll join the club as thx to him! But Big Thx for ur very generous offer! As networking typically works another guy in the club owns a local automotive Machine & Fab shop who can do the surfacing, probably balancing too, but that I have to check. Thx again for the offer!!
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Glad you found a local solution . . . best of luck!
 
All good! Thx all! FB’rs Great! Great source for all ole Ford knowledge! Even @ 70 I continue to grow! :) While I renewed many clutches I never had a stripped mounting hole in a flywheel. Will always opt in the future for a replacement w a flywheel w all good threads! I’ll keep the frugal Tool & Die maker under control ;) !
 
Not that it matters for this post as a fresh flywheel is being used but for general knowledge a 21/64” drill is needed for a 5/16-18 Helicoil. The Major thread diameter of a 5/16-18 bolt is 5/16. So even if thread is stripped of thread completely a 21/64 drill would remove 1/64 more than 5/16 & all stripped condition in preparation for the 5/16-18 Helicoil tap.
 
AnthonyG said:
Installing fresh FW balanced w PP. Does anybody use Loctite on PP to FW Bolts?
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I don't. Why would you? Just use the stock spring washers and torque to the correct value. You (or someone else) will want to undo them some time in the future.
 
Hey Mart, I was pretty much there w lock washers & torque only & beings it put me through a little bit of hell thought can’t hurt to check ;)
 
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