Search results

It could also be a coil failing as they tend to give the same pattern when they start to fail.

Other differences between the American and Canadian cars were in the bumper clamps (at least for the 30-31s). The American cars had bumper clamps with recessed painted inserts and no appearance of bolt while the Canadian cars had solid clamps with a carriage style bolt running through the center.

I would check to make sure the carburetor is getting fuel. Disconnecting the line at the carb lets you check if you have good flow to the carb. If not, the issue is somewhere between the tank and carb in the lines, the tank or the shutoff valve at the tank. If you are getting a good flow of...

The only literature I could find on Lincoln bomb sight balancer was the following http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/history/files/WheelBalancer.pdf. (but it looks like it's mentioning model 7571)

Thanks again guys! I'm hoping it gets repaired as it's the original fender. (beyond my capabilities myself)

Hard to see but it's ripped right across the lower section, dented and creased inwards about halfway up as well. The body shop I'm taking it to hasn't seen it yet so possibly they'll say whether or not they can salvage it.

Thanks Brent! Hoping to save mine but, if it's not replaceable , at least I know exactly what to look for with your information.

Anyone know which body styles share the same rear fender as a 1931 Station wagon? I may need to get a replacement for the passenger side rear so if anyone has any for sale, that would also be appreciated.

They also have the LED replacement bulbs that fit in the original sockets. If you're not concerned about the authenticity of the bulb and want bright beams with low amperage draw, then that could also be a consideration. The bulbs are quite a bit more costly than originals though.

And careful on the torque specs listed in the Les Andrews book if you're going by those for the pan. Someone in our club mentioned it's got a missprint of 20 ft/lbs when it should be something like 5-9 ft/lbs.

Did Henry designate the early 28's as AR because of his earlier model A in the early 1900's?

The last time I experienced a similar issue was the condensor went bad. It would start for a few seconds then die right away.

Check the condition of your spark plugs as well. If any are wet or showing signs of poor performance, they could also be a cause of unburnt fuel going out to the exhaust and running on less than 4 cylinders.This can also restrict your top speed.

When you check the distributor cap carbon point, don't forget to check the gap on the rotor itself and make sure there's no slop in the distributor shaft. If those are set to wrong gap or the shaft wiggles, you'll get an improper arc to the spark plugs and could cause weak firing on the...

Would be nice to see someone pick up the company but as Brent mentions, you need the skillset, the equipment, etc. It may also be the volume of orders required to keep the business feasible from a profit standpoint. As more generations move away from our hobby, the demand becomes less and less...

Just a guess, but would you happen to have too much rubber (or other insulator) under the rad supports at the front. It looks like the rad might be sitting a little too high in comparison to the cowl level so that would tend to tilt the hood upwards and cause a gap at the cowl.

I had a car pull up beside me at a stoplight when the young lady inside asked if it was an automatic.

Another site mentioned if the car leans to one side the steering geometry changes so you have to constantly correct or over correct on your steering and the cars wanders around the road. They referred to this haphazard movement as wallowing.

If the head is straight and not the issue with the compression loss, would a poor valve seat, bent valve or sticking valve let air from #3 to #4 and vice versa?