Search results

Can you send me the link to the ebay article? Is it usable for 6V position ground? Regards Thomas

I mean the polarity of the ammeter. Sorry for my English. I am from Germany. [emoji17] Regards Thomas

Definitely not necessary to change the ammeter [emoji4]. I have just changed from negativ to positiv ground. You need the right voltage regulator. The new one can do both systems. Original Ford only work with positiv ground. I have killed 3 of them to get this information [emoji28]. Regards Thomas

If you can bribe your daughter that would be great. [emoji4] If she don't want we can choose the second way? Regards Thomas

This is very interesting for me. Have you any description how to adjust them? I have had already filed the burned points. After polarization it works only ten minutes and than the voltage break down. Regards Thomas

I have killed 2 original Ford regulators, because I used negative ground in my system. And original Ford regulators only work with positive ground. After I have changed to positiv ground my third Ford regulator works fine. Regards Thomas

Have you positive or negative ground system? Have you the correct regulator for this system? They are not changeable. Have you polarized your regulator? Regards Thomas

All stock 1940 Deluxe Fordor with 6.00x16 tires. Regards Thomas

Now I have made an consumption test over 300 kilometers (186 miles) with nearly constant 62mph (100km/h) on a German autobahn. The motor took 15 liters per 100km. This is really good. Regards Thomas

The problem is, here in Germany I have the only 1940 Fordor. And I know one with a convertible and one standard. That's all.

Thanks for this information. Since 1 year I use the older reproduction full rubber version from MAC's. And now the rubber looks like 50 years old and flat. The rubber quality is very bad. And I am angry because the shipping costs to Germany belonged 65 US$ for that 2 parts. [emoji34] I am very...

You are right! Sorry [emoji120] I read it over smoothly. [emoji17] At that time I did not know what you mean with FAB. I looked only to the part number of the box. You have an original 01A switch? Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

And this I wrote a few days ago [emoji6] Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

This is what I find with the part number Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

I think you are right. This is an original box but wrong part inside. This is an original FoMoCo part but look at it. This is the part number on it : Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

The 21A 11450 switch is internal like on my picture. I measured this with an ohm meter. Your picture is from my 01A 11450 switch.

You are right. This is the system in my car. And it works perfect with my original solenoid. The NOS I bought is different. It is for the newer systems,switched with battery plus. Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

My system is 100 % stock [emoji4]. I have wiring diagrams from 1940 and one from 1949 to 1950. There you can see the different systems. 1940 is ground switched and 1949 gets battery contact from ignition switch. Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

Thank you for this information. But after I have tried this switch and it do not function I took a look to my wiring diagram. At my switch the hot wire (the small connector) has to get minus. (or battery plus if you have a positiv ground system). The later switch I have bought need plus (or...

You are right. I am located in Germany. The shipping costs from USA to Germany are very high. I have payed 40US$ to get it here to Germany. Shipping costs from Germany to the USA is only 20 US$. The seller did not know the different between the Ford starter switches until 1951 and after 1951...