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X2. Crankcase ventilation, starting in 1935.

Found out the previous owner had the shocks rebuilt at A-1 Shock Absorber Co. Called A-1 and was told they use motorcycle fork oil for its non foaming properties. 20W viscosity was mentioned as something they commonly use in their rebuilt Houdaille shocks.

Those appear to be dowel pins. If they are, they will be very hard. If they are through holes, might be able to punch the broken pins out from behind.

Removed front shocks. Have good resistance but low on fluid, it just drips out. Has a heavy gear lube (differential fluid) smell to me. What is recommended to flush with, kerosene, mineral spirits or denatured alcohol? And what to fill with? Edit: Fluid pools on top of water. Does not appear to...

I tried all of the suggestions mentioned, minus the cutting torch only to be met with a galled and torn up perch bore hole. I ended up removing the perches from the axle. Got lucky, someone prior had them out and had applied anti seize to the perch tapers. I then set them up in a milling...

Looks good! (y) Thanks

^^X2. This is the same style I installed in the Model A with just enough tape to reduce volume to suit.

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If that's the case, why are none of the other forums I frequent not censoring these words. Show me proof.

Thanks all for the suggestions. I am not a fan of using a torch under the car. I found using a hacksaw blade an exercise in frustration considering the compromised position and the inability to see or guide the blade properly while sawing. I may try Bored&Stroked's chisel with half round end...

Thanks, upon closer investigation, yes, the thin wall sleeves are still in there. Now getting those out is going to be a challenge.

WRA, the tool I made is very easy to make if one has access to a lathe, a 3.5" length of 3/4" pipe. (1.050" outside diameter) a 4" length of 5/8" steel round stock drilled and tapped with a 3/8"-24 thread. The opposite end was turned down to 1/2" for a 1/2"-20 thread 2" long. If one does not...

Thanks all for the replies and recommendations. Thanks 35fordtn and Fritz. Will be ordering the Third Gen polyurethane ones. :)

Thanks deuce lover for the Third Gen and Ebay lead. Third Gen has two types. One has polyurethane bushings for both spring and perch. The other is a can type with rubber encapsulated stud inside for the spring eye only per their information. I am assuming with the can type, the upper or spring...

Success! Both left and right perch shackle studs and rubber bushings out. All within an afternoon. :) Did a little machine work and fabricated a puller shown below. The inner piece screws onto the stud. The outer pipe piece is placed over it and the nut is screwed down until the stud and...

5 years of use and occasional backing in reverse with the knob down. No noise, no problems. It's like you are in a neutral. You just don't go anywhere. (Borg Warner R10.)

The first few threads were already messed up. I screwed a nut on the end to try tapping and I quickly realized nothing was moving. Going to fabricate a puller tool to try extraction before going the drill route. Thanks

On the R10 OD installed in my '30 "A" If you left the OD knob down. (in) It would simply spin like being in neutral when one tried to reverse. No harm done. You will wonder why you are not reversing and then aha, pull OD lever out. :)

I am familiar with the Model A type spring shackle with the shackle studs running through steel or bronze bushings. The '34 appears to be different. The stud has a square just beneath the threads and there are rubber flanges or bushings surrounding the stud. Does not respond to hammer taps...

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