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I will pull the intake and tighten them up. The Bob drake lifter I got are the biggest pieces of sh*t I have ever bought. The first set were so loose I could turn them by hand. The second set are so tight I had to adjust them outside the block as I needed a long wrench.

I currently have the kiwi l-100 set to manufacture specs for lash. Even after warming up it ticks. I have checked it 3 time over the last year. I notice the Schneider s-100 cam has a lot tight lash. .010 and .012. I can’t see any harm in going tighter to remove some noise. Should there be any...

A combination of things seemed to help. Float level, 4.5 power valves, advance, plug gap, and adjusting mixture screws. I drive the car everyday it doesn’t rain. Iam just trying to tune it as best I can, why stop at “it runs ok”.

The engine is running a lot better now. Increased the timing as much as possible without pinging. It will light the the tires up now through 2nd gear. I hooked up and air/fuel gauge. Sitting at 14:1 at idle now. While driving and under acceleration Iam 13.2 to 13.8. Iam running 51 jets. Should I...

Ok here is a bit of an update. I pulled the timing cover and gear and checked against the 2 other I have. The marks are all in the same spot. So that is verified to be correct. Checked the valve lash and they were all within .001”. Confirmed with kiwi l-100 spec of .016”. Then I noticed...

Here is an update. I pulled both carbs and went over them again. Block sanded the surface flat, new accelerator pumps, new balls, steel needle and float seat, cleaned all passages. Reinstalled the flathead distributor with pertronix. Opened gap to .035”. Increased fuel pressure back to 3psi...

Flatjack9 in my second post I explain that I made a mark on the pulley at rebuild and I also did an interference check with a zip tie. Then split the difference with micrometers and it was the same as my original mark.

Flatjack9 I had the engine set at TDC. When I put the timing cover back on the pointer is at the TDC (I scribed 5° marks half way around the pulley) the original timing mark is past the pointer already. If I set it to the original timing mark I would be 4° retarded. I have those cheap chrome...

After setting the engine to TDC, I noticed my crank timing mark that is supposed to be 4°btdc is actually 4° after. So if Iam suppose to be around 10° Iam currently close to 14° off. I checked float levels this morning and they are good. I will check the ball valve in the tank, the vent, and...

Thanks ol’ron. I have tried to read everything you posted on these gm distributors. I checked with a timing light and timing tape to get those exact numbers. Think I might start looking at the fuel side of things. Might need a bigger vent in that model T cap. I will pull the gaskets from the...

Thanks for the help ronnieroadster. So if I have 10 initial I have to get a bigger bushing or put a set screw in to limit my mechanical even more as Iam at 18°. That would put me at 28° which I have read is way too high. Would you suggest leaving off the vacuum advance? What do you think the...

With my 4° initial and 6° vacuum, would I not be at 10°? I have a brass coloured bushing on the mechanical and 1 medium and 1 light spring.

I am running a blue bosch 00012 as per bubba’s recommendations. No ballist resistor. Full 12v to coil from ignition. TDC was marked on the pulley at rebuild and I also just checked it as per Bruce Lancaster’s interference stop. Put a zip tie in the spark plug hole turn engine till it stops then...

Here is some of the specs Model T bucket 3spd, banjo, less than 2000lbs. 8ba bored .125, edelbrock head with .055” clearance, kiwi l-100 cam, .060 shims under stock springs, .016 lash Fresh rebuild, sbc points distributor with 4° initial 18° mechanical (all in at 2200rpm) 6° vacuum advance. Blue...