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It would be best to change the rod/s . Those are lead babbitt as it's not shiny and it's dull like a lead weight. Do yourself a favor and get a replacement set of rods. I wouldn't go back to that rebuilder if he put faulty parts in and then told you after rebuilding it , wouldn't torque up...

The groove needs to be there to supply oil evenly across surface of bearing and crank along with oil wells. Ford did everything for a reason and if it wasn't needed he wouldn't of done so. https://www.jandm-machine.com/rebabbiting.html

Most likely block is cracked in lifter gallery, that you could hear it trickle into the sump. A magnaflux or pressure test would of pointed this out during rebuild. This can be repaired through metal stitching as we have in the example shown.

Since you're going to be taking it apart, it would be a great idea to have it done. that 63 pound flywheel makes a big difference to the engine when it's balanced as a unit with the pressure plate. Seems everyone says the car runs good but truly runs better when they're balanced.

If they're a reputable machine shop and can do balancing, ask them if they have a CWT or Hines, machine . Just need the "flywheel mandrel" to spin pressure plate and flywheel as a unit. As I have shown in the picture. https://www.jandm-machine.com/balancing.html

Hello Richard: You did perfect explanation of the valve seat process and why it's needed. In asking what is the perfect valve seat,? There are variables of what is needed depending on what has been done to the block. Has it had prior valve seat installation? is valve seat cracked? how...

Thank you Ryan for cleaning it up. From such a benign comment why did I get slammed? Let's stick to the subject. There's enough grumpy old men in this forum.

We're in Massachusetts if you can't find anyone. I could do it while you wait. https://www.jandm-machine.com/balancing.html

Yes: They can be replaced. They were installed after the block was cast. Steel tubing. www.jandm-machine.com

You can try "Manitowoc machine in Wisconsin" John

We would charge with the parts" ARP rod nuts/wrist pin bushings" would be $783 plus tax so in dollars and cents if you want price you can buy the scat rods before the tariff kicks in. We don't sell parts as you can get them from Speedway or Summitracing.

We remove the material from the two ribs on the big end of connecting rod. Typical set of V8 rods are usually within 6 grams as long as they haven't been swapped out. Yes we have a tool prior to honing the wrist pin bushings that forces the bushing tightly against the rod prior to final honing.

You can send them to us. We can rebuild them with new ARP nuts and new wrist pin bushings and even weight match them if you want? https://www.jandm-machine.com/

For the block repair..as others have said you could use an epoxy to fix that. Cylinder head can be metal stitched and then resurfaced. There may be other cracks in the head so you'd have to check. Something that Every model A goes through. https://www.jandm-machine.com/crack_repair.html

Yes they are babbitt bearings and there is no saving those if you are going to drive it. Those bearings are also lead babbitt ,doesn't last long. A good machine shop will use tin base babbitt as shown in two pictures enclosed.

QUOTE:” When a replacement part is needed on a rebuilt engine where everything was balanced as an assembly, everything needs to come apart and be rebalanced again as another assembly with new match marks. Please avoid rebuilders that insist on balancing assemblies instead of balancing...

There will be no witness marks on the new pressure plate because it is not balanced. It is a good idea while you have it apart to have Flywheel and pressure plate balanced as a unit. You'll be surprised how far off it may be. https://www.jandm-machine.com/balancing.html

Thank you "Cookiemonster" for mentioning us. We are full service machine shop that have done many Model A engines for your club, Mike1291 "Little Rhodies" along with "Marcom", "Worcester county-Minute Man club."As well as other Model A' engines and engines in general from around the...

Yes because if the rods are already undersize and the crank has been crack inspected then why not? It could be reground to standard Model A size. We have done this on the counterweighted C to grind the mains and rods so it would fit into a stock model A. https://www.jandm-machine.com/grinding.html

Let me guess; They said "It's only a Model A" If you looked at the pictures I posted the blue dye shows the head being warped after removing .004" and then finally cleaning up at .007" too much for a model A to handle along with the poor surface finish out of the box.