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For what it's worth, the stock filter bracket is spot welded onto the canister. I had to drill them to remove the bracket for a bloke a while ago. You could easily drill the spot welds, remove the bracket and make a new one or modify it to mount on the firewall.

Perhaps if it were a coupe.. but not for a bloody sedan.

I have a pair of 21 stud '37 heads that i believe are either replacement heads, or they are Ford Pilot heads. They have the firing order on them. Dunno the compression ratios, and never bothered to take any notice of the combustion chamber. I wonder if they are different to what you have. I...

Chris, I'm talking about the threads that the nut goes on to hold the head down, i'm aware of the threads in the block being different and that you definitely shouldn't use a tap in them, rather a thread chaser. Thanks for that info, pretty much what i was thinking. I suppose when the studs...

Flatjack, would that not depend on whether or not the PM-7's fuel pump stand (as in the stand on the manifold, not the one the pump bolts to) is the same height as an original manifold? I know that my Edelbrock Super Dual is different to the height of my original '37 aluminium manifold.

Scooder, Would you suggest running a die over the tops of the studs to clean the nut threads, and a simple wire wheeling of the deck to ensure cleanliness? Or, what else / would you suggest?

Here is the picture of the front of mine that i sent Bruce the other day for an ID on the crank, as i'd heard mention of this "long" and "short" crank variates. Mine has as pictured, a twin pulley crank and Bruce believes it to be either a super duper rare long crank, or it has some form of...

Bruce, That picture i posted above with the ally heads and edelbrock manifold is the entire engine of the photo i sent you the other day. Also, my engine was originally in a half cut '36 chassis and it was used to power a saw mill, then a welder.. until 20 odd years ago where it sat in the...

I too have a '37 engine, or at least what i believe to be a '37 truck engine (as over here we had Ford Pilot '37 style engines well into the '50s..) although it has standard block mounted water pumps, and the heads originally on it were cast iron with firing order numbers on it. It too has a...

I found a manifold exactly like this at a swap meet over this side of the world last year, have had it hanging up ever since but decided to put it on my 21 stud engine to cover the open valley area. I too thought it was some early form of PCV system. How well it works, couldn't tell ya.

I've got these Canadian heads for the 24 stud.. I'm not 100% sure if this engine had the long or short crank.. i've never measured to find the difference. I also have these heads, which don't have "Made in Canada" on them but may be the Canadian heads.. unless they are Ford factory...

I saw this on the Aussie Hambers page on facebook originally. I guess it is a Model A so its not entirely lying.. but yeah that home made rear leaves much to be desired.. Shame about the price because when i bought my Brookville Roadster rear section, subrails ect it was nearly $4500.. so may...

Heres something i thought you might find helpful.

I don't have any pictures of it, but my Roadsters chassis began life as a "Roadster Ute". It was an AR chassis, had an open cowl on it (that got sold off separate to the chassis). The body or i should say what was left of it.. was i think two slab sides of the ute bed, it had a tourer centre...

I've had my '37 21 stud engine on a stand hung by the bellhousing, albeit NOT the original Ford bolts.. but some far longer, thicker bolts that came with the stand itself.. for about 2 years and had no problems at all. It did sag the stand a little though. I did only a fortnight ago ended up...

Okay i've found my information from last time this came up. The early pump in head engines mounted lower than the later ones. When Ford dealerships had cars come in and they replaced the engines with a 21 stud pump in block, or later 24 stud.. they used these mounts. Repros can be found here...

If memory serves me correctly, the later 21 stud and onwards water pump mounting heights are different to the earlier engines. Ford used a U shaped spacer to prop up the engines. I can't remember if it was later engine in an earlier car needed them, or the other way around.

Why don't you just replace the mount, and while the old mount is out.. grease it up good.. put new mount in and forget about it? Or do what mart said and the three washers ontop of the trans mounting ears put them underneath the mount instead. Sounds like you are overthinking such a simple...

Couldn't you just drill and tap a hole in the center at the bottom where there is more room and move the elbow and grease nipple across to that, and then just plug up the other original hole with a grub screw? Would that not allow you more room?

I don't know what some of you guys are fussin about. I removed both pins this arvo on a '41 - '48 rear end. I used a flap disc, lightly sanded the pins down until smooth with the coupler, then center punched the center and gave it a bit of a tap.. then sanded the other side smooth and tapped it...