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Doesn't it also act as a heat shield to prevent damage to the insulation if it laid on top of the head?

Till Paint Co. ? 691 S Evergreen Ave, Woodbury Heights, NJ 08097

Thanks for the informative post.

Excellent!

I trimmed mine approx. 1/16" above the flange of the block and the pan. Trimming with a utility knife or buck knife did not yield a nice clean cut. A straight, true cut was possible with a pair of electrical cable cutters with good sharp edges.

I've been trying to find the answer to this question for some time. I can't find a definitive answer in the books (yet). On a '31 45B Deluxe Coupe, is the rear body rail (under the sill molding, just above the frame) painted upper or lower body color?

Wish I had gotten more...

Would certainly agree with others. At a minimum, flush entire cooling system with clean water several times. Adding baking soda on initial flushings can only help. Only when you're sure it's thoroughly flushed and neutralized, drain and add coolant.

When you get ready to reinstall the oil pan, be very careful replacing the rear-most 5/16" pan bolts near the flywheel housing. Either replace the housing cover first, or stuff rags in the opening so you don't drop a bolt in the housing. It's a miserable task to get a bolt out of there.

A short 3/4", 3/8 drive socket will make life easier when removing the nuts on the rear main cap. Be sure to keep the nuts and shims separated so you know which side of the engine they came from.

The engine rebuilder I consulted when checking my bearing clearances said to be sure to recoat the shims with shellac if I needed to "peel" the shims. I assumed it was best to use a thin coating of shellac on reassembly even though the shims did not need adjustment. In his book, Les Andrews...

At 6v, the battery needs to deliver a great deal of current to run the starter motor. A thin cable, or a cable with bad connections at the terminations just increases the overall resistance of that wire. That means a lower voltage appears at the end of the battery cable where the ignition wire...

If you find your battery cables are part of the problem, you might try this place: http://www.custombatterycables.com/ I used them for cables on my 6v Farmall after several starter rebuilds and cable changes. No more problems.

How about heat from a hair dryer or heat stripping gun? Maybe you could heat the bearing while keeping the spindle cool with wet rags.

I've seen some older repair pictures that had all the valves with the circular recess like the one on the left in your picture. That may have made lapping easier, don't know. Haven't read anything that says there's a difference between the intake and exhaust valves. Mine were all smooth top...

Would it be helpful to jam rubber wedges between the glass and the window frame to hold the glass?

Weak battery not supplying enough voltage to the ignition circuit? Could you provide an external 6v (say, from a charger) to power the ignition while your battery runs the starter? Can you crank start it?

Thanks for the post.

No. There's no way the nuts could have come loose a full turn or more just by moving the panel.

I replaced my ammeter last week. When I pulled back the instrument panel to access the wiring, I found that both terminals were extremely loose. It was surprising that the car still ran. This could have resulted in a similar problem. When the new ammeter was installed, I took precautions (using...