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The ignition is driven through the deck and the head from the valve-chamber. But that’s on the other side from where the serial number is. There’s no oil on the serial number side.

Thanks guys for sharing your experience and the good idea to use these soldering caps!

I recently bought a Model B engine. I compared the lift of Model A camshafts I have with the B camshaft only to find out my B cam had much less lift! The B camshaft lobes are very sharp and wear down easier than the Model A camshaft. My advise is to pull the camshaft out and measure it...

Has anybody installed this modification, 2 blind plugs that go into the holes of the bellhousing and that cover the transmission shifter-fork-shafts to stop the leakage of transmission oil into the bellhousing? I am asking, because at the other side, the shifter tower has originally a similar...

This subject has been reported before on this forum. These poor quality bearings will fail in short order. This had me concerned as I rebuild transmissions for a restoration shop. I checked my inventory that I get from Bratton's and found they were the same as I always received. I spoke with...

I am rebuilding my gearbox and ordered the 3 roller/needle bearings. I got one long and one short one as designed by Ford; the rollers are super smooth as you expect from needle bearings. They have smaller diameter ends that ride in holes in the cage. The cages are ground to a certain diameter...

I bought an “older restauration”. I am a trained engineer and have a fully equipped workshop with welders, lathe etc. and I need it! I have spend a year of my free time and my A is still not running. I like inspecting and repairing all the worn parts. But if you do not have the experience and...

Model B block with Model A head. Did you plug the 2 steam holes in the deck of the block? Coolant may leak in 2nd and 3th cylinder through those.

Check every float valve with a manual vacuum pump. If they hold vacuum they’re good. I had 5 leaking, including 2 new ones! Then I got me a viton tipped one and that held vacuum and did not leak fuel.

The voices tell me babbits are bad and must be punished ;-)

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/shiftlevertool.htm This is the answer to the original question for future generations to enjoy ;-) I am off to my workshop to build it!

I also made this tool to swedge the hollow point rivets that lock the shifter forks to the fork-shafts

Big hammer is right: check the ball. It should be perfectly round, no flat sides, and 1/2” diameter. It should fit snugly in the shifter fork slots. If not, buy new or weld up and grind back into shape. If there is play the shifting fors will not travel the full distance to fully engage the...

The shafts have to come out. You need a spring compressor to release the tension of the spring. That spring has made many casualties over the last 80 years! You can order a spring compressor from the verdors or build one yourself which saves time and money. I made a video on YouTube to show the...

Jim, thanks for your reply. And thank you for taking the effort to publish the second edition of your book. I learned a lot and it’s also fun to read.

I was lucky, those were already in my block.

Ursus thank you for your help.

I am offered a Model B cam. As I read that those cams can be worn down badly at the nose and not deliver the power anymore, I want to measure the lobes before I buy it. I found that model A camshafts give an intake/exhaust lift of .303” and model B camshafts give an intake lift of .334” and an...

You are so right!

Bill, it took me one evening to machine the shaft, lapping disk and the 2 bearings. The cast iron grinds away pretty easy, but so does the sandpaper. So I had to cut off and glue on sandpaper several times. Waiting for the glue to cure took the longest time (and patience). For me a large part...