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The condenser should be connected to the positive input to the meter and the other end to ground.

You are right about the heat at 1/2 the amps of a 12v circuit but the circuit breaker will not trip until the amps equal that of the circuit breaker rating. Once the amps are equal in a 6v circuit to the amps in a 12v circuit the heat generated in the breaker will be the same.

The power to trip the circuit breaker is the current squared times the resistance of the circuit breaker. It doesn't matter if that current comes from a 6 volt or a 12 volt source. Amps are amps.

The amount of current a device draws is determined by the voltage the alternator maintains and the effective resistance of the device. As long as those two things remain constant the current doesn't change. Right after startup the alternator provides that excess current to the battery but does...

A failing condenser can give the symptoms you describe.

This works.

My Grandfather was a mechanic at a Ford dealership when Model A's were new. My Dad started working with him as a teenager. My Dad told me the above was the reason for the holes in the tray.

The bolts go in from the bottom, nuts and cotters on top.

I'm interested.

No starter relay was pretty common across all makes for that time period.

Try a different service. Having a title should not be a constraint. I used a service and I had an out of state title.

You don't need to go to the DMV for a vin verification. There are organizations that can come to your house and do it. That's how I did mine when the body was off. http://www.asapvehicleverifiers.com/VV2LocationsServed.html

'28 Tudor Body# CHI1624 Engine# A62277 No date on the gas tank

Check the wires with a test light or meter to be sure, but the black should be the 12v charge wire. The center wire is usually used for backup lights.

On my 28 Tudor the bows are 41 3/4 inches long. The center of the holes are 3/8 inches in from the ends of the bow.

Sounds like you are not logged in on your phone. Log in using your user name and password.

Ray, I recently bought a can of this at Hobby People on Convoy street in Kearney Mesa.

I don't have a spring I can give them but maybe this is enough.

Dave, if adding that one resistor to one light doesn't slow down the flashing it may be that you are not increasing the current enough. To check, add both resistors in parallel to one light. If that works then a single 3 ohm resistor is what you need for each side. Dan

I'll give them a call but that's probably where the ones I have came from.