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I will go take a look at a couple spacers I have here. My son also ordered some Fel-Pro #1901 4 hole gaskets which appear to cover the corners better than the carb kit gaskets. Thing is being the intake has nothing supporting it underneath, that alone probably won't work. Larger flange flat...

And finally as requested, the casting number pic

Forgot upload button..

Here is the left front corner of the 58 intake followed by pic of same corner of an Edelbrock intake..

Here is the later tapered spacer, notice it covers the hole a little better, but still leaves it open. (There is epoxy in the offending area of the carb base plate now in both these pics. Decided to try that first.)

Here is a picture of the flat spacer up against carb bottom. I believe this to be the original one cuz the later spacers were tapered. This spacer is flat and the angle correction needed for the carb to sit horizontal is already cast into the intake. The later spacers with the vacuum nipple were...

October 3rd 1957 is my interpretation of that date code and the numeral "1" indicating first shift..

I recall having some trouble finding a head gasket that did not intrude into the combustion chamber and think I ended up using the early steel shim type gasket cuz Fel-Pro's and other later composition gaskets jutted out into the combustion chamber which I thought was probably asking for...

Intake casting number is 5750034, below that are "70", then a large dot, followed by a "C" and a little further right a large numeral "1"

Just woke up, was up all night. About 20 years ago I bought 2 1958 Fairlane 500 4 doors along with the 69 390 2v engine. One 58 was a clean TX body whose engine and transmission had been stripped from it for a 58 retractable restoration according to the guy I bought the cars from. He had done...

Have a 1969 390 here topped with early 1958 machined chamber heads and matching 1958 4 barrel factory intake, but we are using a 1961 Ford 4100 carburetor in place of the Holley that would have been on a 1958. Finally got it running last night and realized there is a vacuum leak at the base at...

"Light on the points trick".... Care to elaborate on that? I have a new timing light on hand as I lost track of the 50 year old light I had before. But have yet to use it. Thanks

Yes, we did go round and round on what needs to be grounded and there are a whole lot of repainted parts on this thing. So prior to reaching out I had already hooked up an extra ground wire from solenoid to block and cleaned distributor base and clamp itself to bare metal, the spot it contacts...

Got it, I think.. Inspected all inside distributor and it was all fine. But I had done that multiple times before to no avail. So, I took out the NVOS points once again and filed them in case there was any kind of film inhibiting contact cuz there didn't seem to be anything left to change...

Yep, braided wire is fine... Points are new and open and close with engine cranking...

The braided fine ground wire inside distributor appears ok. Had swapped out one of those with cleaned up ends into the first distributor. But I will check it in the present distributor too.

It is hot-wired so no doubt about power. But it does stay on all the time while cranking..

Yes, did that and it seemed to have too much resistance and so have a hot wire running direct from battery to coil + but still no spark with resistor wire eliminated from the circuit.

Have been around points-equipped Fords for decades and never had this much difficulty getting spark.. 390 has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and battery/cables. No spark. Ground wire inside distributor to points is fine, though I had also switched that too when nothing else worked...

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