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You can usually buy a good flywheel at a swap meet for $5. My guess is your flywheel has been resurfaced too much. I wouldn't use it. Just my guess/opinion

Yeah - -heat it up till it starts to turn red then bang it with a hammer till it looks right. These are pretty common (unbent) at swap meets - --- $5-10?

How much shim did you find under the main bearings?

John, In my opinion, you should fix this the right way. Buy a new stud. If you don't have the tools, most machine shops can fix this in about 5 minutes - -probably charge you $10-20. Just my opinion

You should be able to manually rotate the shaft and feel the air flow out of the port. If you don't feel a pretty good air flow when you rotate the shaft, you've probably got a bad wiper.

In my experience, this amount of leak is usually caused by oil coming out of the rear main. You may be able to fix this by removing the rear main and removing shims. I've seen a lot of the pipes tack welded or soldered. That's where I'd start - -just my opinion

once again - -this is just my opinion. You can't fix this without removing the transmission. You're going to have the rear end out anyway - -(and you should consider things like changing the axel seals - -you can only get to those by removing the trumpets) Usually damage like this...

What's a tuxedo?

OK guys - -don't shoot me - -this is just my opinion It's easier to drop the pan and do it right. I'd bet I'd be done before you got the old one out. Again,, just my opinion.

I think Rusty's right -and I think the correct nut is taller

http://www.brattons.com/uploads/images_products_large/04310.jpg Wrong nut? - tough to tell - -the link is to a pic of Bratton's nut

I'm told this stuff works great - -never tried it http://www.gpartsinc.com/p-5236-loctite-freeze-release-shock-freeze-1352-oz-996456.aspx?CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=330001590000004772&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjwm4mwBRCni-ivmePYivkBEiQAdGkkljFMzV4STeydd4GOhzzGHoULb-IMCRmw6eDRCdbrsUQaAgrY8P8HAQ

I guess I didn't explain very well - -yes you can pull just the tube - -no need to pull the box. By the way - -welding is not a very good fix, it's temporary at best - -this is great chance to get a new good tube and put in new shiny spark and throttle rods - -

Glen, So, this is just a break in the tube - rig'ht? I've seen this before - -I been told it is caused by tightening the bottom bolts, then needing to push up on the column to get in into the gas tank bracket. Puts a load on the tube - -vibration - -etc. Yes you can get just the...

yep - -I agree - - didn't know water would work - -

It's my opinion, and I'm sure others disagree, but Model A Fords aren't as safe as a modern car, especially at speeds over about 45. http://abc7.com/news/2-killed-after-antique-car-crashes-into-tree-bursts-into-flames/964783/ Here's a link to a news article - -old couple out for a...

I got mine out by heating them up until they were just turning red, then squirting them with penetrating oil. Yes, it wrecks the paint and there can be a fire when you spray, so be careful

from model a ford garage: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABenginenumbers.htm#C1

most of the part houses are now selling a nut and bolt that look like a rivet. Here's one http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/model-a-ford-data-patent-plate-mounting-rivet-set-8-pieces-stainless-steel.html Originally, these were a rivet - - steel if memory serves

yep -could be - -but it should be less milky - It's a lot of work - -but you could clean out the old oil - drop the pan (there is oil in the splash pans) and take off the value cover - -I think that will get It all - -I'd do that before I pulled the engine - -I guess - - not a fun problem