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You can add one of these: https://modelastore.com/collections/aa-truck-parts/products/aa-7523-aa-4-speed-trans-clutch-pedal-spring I used one for a while when I had a 4 speed in the '29 ccpu. But if yours was a developing problem over time it's likely something else....it isn't a 4-speed...

Could be this: https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...l-Block-TE.pdf https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329760 .

My '29 ccpu had a four-speed when we bought it in 1962. No idea when it was installed. Certainly was not for parades...the bed had 1/4" plate bottom and the rear crossmember was broken and patched from repeated overloading...kind of cobbled together but the truck was definitely meant to be used...

This is the culprit....

On page 1-147 para. 6 the text mentions 55 ft. lbs. Andrews does this in several places describing assembly.

Here is some discussion and pictures and opinions...:) https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232094&showall=1

Our ccpu had a push button start.......way ahead of it's time! Downside is the hole... Oh, and a solenoid. 6 volt.

That toggle lever shaft goes through the brake backing plate, then there is a return spring that goes over the shaft, then the key goes into the slot and the e-brake actuating arm then slides on and the key holds it from rotating. A bolt secures it in place. Getting that spring in place can be a...

And don't forget there is a bolt that enters from underneath, through the oil pan flange...

Are you turning the crank clockwise as viewed from the front? Might just be a little more than normal lash. Clean the contact surfaces on the ignition points, use 400 or so grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, dry, or use a proper point file.

Loctite offers many adhesives beyond thread locker. They have a metal to metal glue any many others.

This picture shows the various distributor parts and shafts. The long rusty one on the left is a single shaft that replaced the upper and intermediate shaft.

Does your drive gear look like this, with the collar on one end? The one I'm holding is a new slightly oversized replacement, the original is on the bench, along with the old collar and pin.

Replacement shafts and distributor parts are available, assuming that you have an original type distributor...

There is a tang on both ends of the oil pump/distributor drive gear shaft, one tang fits into the oil pump shaft slot, the other in the intermediate shaft. There is a slot on the other end of the intermediate shaft. The tang from the distributor shaft fits into this slot, which is slightly...

You will need to remove the valve cover and oil return pipe. Behind the valve cover is the distributor drive gear and retaining spring. Remove the spring and the gear will come out. Has this engine run recently?

Just a couple photos to compare. This is the location of the bearing I was wondering about...

I realize that you have received many suggestions...my ideas may be nothing new... In the first video,(https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FlLgvjgv7j4) as you move the main drive gear by hand, there seems to be a lot of movement between it and the main shaft, looking where the main shaft fits into...

Way back when I was told that the cable should be attached to the upper rail of the frame, furthest from the muffler, to help protect the cable from excessive heat.

This is the early style for the tank with a threaded filler neck.