Search results

Thanks, All good help!

My hood top strip that joins the two hood pieces has to be replaced. I bought an aftermarket strip and it won't work...grooves are too tight. Any suggestions on finding a good quality piece or NOS?

I need to replace my '34 hood hinge connector strip. The original won't keep the hood together. I got a replacement from Drake but it's too tight to join the hood together. Can anyone suggest a better source for that connector strip? Like an NOS. Thanks...

Thanks. I’ve seen cars that had a strip of fender welt between the visor and header. It seems like a good place to have a seal.

Is there supposed to be any weather strip or welting above the 28/29 Tudor/Coupe visor where it mounts to the body?

Is the washer really needed? Seems like the condenser keeps itself well centered in the dist housing?

I also have this problem with my light flywheel, V-8 clutch but only if I'm trying to drive slow in either 1st or second. It will jerk back and forth with the car idling along on level pavement. I have to push the clutch and reengage it to accelerate out of it. I attribute it to the light...

About the only way to get oil is if it is already in the water and coming through a seep in the head gasket. I would drain the water, run the engine without water at fast idle for two minutes, let it cool overnight, retorque all the head bolts, refill the water system with block sealer, and run...

Thanks very much for the input. I feel like I'm on the right track.

Hope you all could get the idea it's not "beak" in oil...

Breaking in a new ring job. Thought I'd ask if there's a preferred oil to break in since non detergent is very hard to find. Is 10W30 good enough? Thanks

I would try shorting out spark plugs one at a time and see if there's one that doesn't make much difference in the running. Then change that plug.

The pencil screen and a good sediment bowl work very well to keep the fuel clean. I don't use aftermarket inline filters because it's hard to tell when they're full. When you do your top try to save the guttering and reuse on the new top. Fits better than any of the aftermarket, especially the...

I'd check with Bert's in Colorado or Arizona Model A.

Wow, amazing work. Bill Barlow in Bend, OR (541-389-2694) also does beautiful babbitt, but I think he just does mains. Very good price at $350.

Stiener tractor sells that same sw for $12.

Dave Renner at rennerscorner.com says they have numerous Marvels and all the parts for them, even though they only advertise the rebuild kits and misc other parts. Just get in touch and he'll fix you up...even a totally rebuilt one. I've rebuilt several and always could get what I needed from...

The lack of any piston damage above the oil ring says there was no excessive combustion temp or detonation. So if the oil ring was the problem, that could only have happened through things like too tight end gap and cyl too hot (lack of water), or deformed ring at installation. For no more...

Also, excessive blow-by can pressurize the crankcase and push oil out the rear seal. It also comes out the breather and distributor hole, too!

Another way to test is to assemble everything, turn the block vertical, squirt oil into the drain tube to fill it up, and watch to see if oil leaks past the seal. Some light seepage is okay after a few hours but not much.