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I have a 1958 ford ranchero that im restoring. Bought new key locks for doors and new lock pawls. Problem is the key will unlock door but it won't lock it. Any ideas? I don't see anything in manual.

Here is a pic

I meant headlight breaker not relay

Restoring a 1958 ranchero and noticed a rectangular metal breaker screwed to the driver side under the dash. I think this is a headlight relay but not sure. Red wire one side and red/black other side. I need to replace it because it has no continuity. It says 12V 12AMP. Isn't this quite small...

I'm having trouble finding a ring gear for my 1958 ranchero 292. I ordered one from pioneer but it did not expand enough to go over the flywheel. Took it to 500 degrees. The ID of the ring is 13.352. Od of flywheel is 13.5. Do I have the wrong flywheel? If so where can I get one

Thanks for the reply. I wish the manual was a little clearer. And yes they are tricky getting them in while keeping it centered on the shaft. Thanks again.

On a 1958 Ranchero are the upper control arms centered on the control arm shaft or are they off set on the shaft. This 1958 ranchero has screw in bushings

Thanks for the offer ricklove. Actually I might would take you up on the offer but I would like to install the carb on the car Sat morning. So my only choice is to buy one local.

I have found the 1406 at my local Advance Auto Parts store. Are these ready to go, out of the box or will they have to be tuned for my engine?

Thanks for all the responses. The car originaly had a autolite 4300 but even after a rebuild it will not cooperate! I am done with it! I have heard about the Autolite 4100 but can't find one. Also I would like a 600cfm carb because I might choose to mildly modifiy my engine and I would like to...

I want to put a Holley on my restored 67 Mustang which has a stock 289. I have been told that the 4160 600 cfm Classic is a good choice because it will work with my breather, fuel line set up and stock intake. My question is: Will I see any negative performance with a 600 cfm carb on this stock 289?

I am building a custom long bed for my 1953 chevy 3600 but I would like to use the bed strips that are already prepunched. Can some one give me the measurements of where the hole are in the prepunched strips from the front to the rear of the bed. By looking at pictures I think there are seven...

His question was "what is acceptable". I take that to be, what is be what is the lowest psi before the engine get starved for oil. 15-20 at hot idle would still get oil to all parts of the engine. I agree a new rebuild should be more unless you have modified the oil galleys which could reduce...

It is not unusual for oil pressure to be 20psi when hot and at idle. I have seen newly rebuilds that run 20 when hot at idle. Especially if you have done a good job of cleaning all the oil galley channels. I have a 304 in a 70s vechile that runs around 15 when hot at idle, but step on the gas...

Most paint removers will at least soften up the primer. You should then be able to wipe it off with steel wool. If you are using the cheap remover don't expect great results. My suggestion is to use a aircraft paint remover. It can be purchased at most auto parts store, like Advance Auto. I have...

I just rebuilt my 56 312 and used the best gasket seal(black). I do have the right retainer but the seal leaked anyway. After pulling the gasket I found that the inside diameter was a little large for the crank. Before some one suggest it, I DO have a 312 crank! I ordered a new gasket from NPD...

Update: I am very happy to say that after high speed travel in 82 degree temps, the engine is totally sealed and there are no leaks. I have also had several cool down cycles to test its performance. In addition I have found that my engine is now running cooler than it ever did before. I can only...

Update: I have the engine completely assembled and I have run a fresh water pressure test on the assembled engine at 25 psi for 30 minutes. Thankful to say there were NO leaks. Hope to have the engine installed in my tbird in next couple of days and see what it does under the heat of a running...

Since everyone has been so helpful with my water leak problem, I thought I would update you on my progress. As you know I found that my problem was not the head gasket at all. Rather it was the # 7 and # 1 cylinder sleeves that were leaking around the deck of the block. The reason the machine...

Thanks Hoosier, Didn't think of that. Anyway I think I found my problem. After hooking up the engine to house water pressure, water begin flowing out of the spark plug hole for #7. Not sure if I mentioned this before but this Block had sleeves put in in before. But before I rebuilt the engine I...