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Gene1949 Funny you post that AS Micheal and I just had a phone conversation about very same issue about an hour or so ago.

No, the "generally" used points gap is .014-.016.......so when I was getting down to .011 it just didn't seem/feel right was what I meant~

Ken Thanks, I have all the directions and have set up "several" distributors BUT never the "early" points version....SO not familiar with all the nuances of them....With that said, Thanks MIchael....The points plate I posted the picture of was just an "example" plate of the one I am working on...

karl Yes I am aware of that, I am trying to set it up on my Sun distributor machine.

SO, working on a 68A with the attached pic of the points plate, I have started at .015 gap and only got 16dg of dwell and 29dg on both sets. I narrowed the right gap to .014 and picked up 2dgs on my Sun on both readings. So I narrowed the right to .013 and the left to .014 and got to 20 and 30...

The flanged/right rear dip stick block was the very first issued 32 block and only made it to the first 2500 "ISH" cars (IF memory serves) they had "issues" with them SO many where "replaced" very soon after release...Obviously from mine and Deuce Lovers post Several survived and were not...

Michael With all due respect, I "THINK" you missed a "ZERO" in the "5000" figure.....David told me it was 50,000 engine and transmission units that had to be stored until May of 32 MIchael, you can also verify, wasn't there a "certain" Phaeton from South America that was in the #1400/1500ish...

Would anyone have the correct color code for the "early" 1933 standard grey OR the later 1933 standard maroon for the dash and garnish trim they would share?

which flathead 21, 24, 8BA

I R.S.V.P right now!!!

Kube X2 PLUS, as OP said Chris at Bauer is ACES too!!!! both TOP NOTCH.... A pair that beats a full house every time!!!!

Ahhh grasshopper, I see says the blindman!!! My bad/mis-understanding

Don. you've sent me on a quest.....here is what I've found in a short period of time.

I "believe" that has been cut.....for some odd reason?

IF it helps, I used 6lb stren fishing line looped thru the bolt holes so that I had something to "potentially" pull on to snug up the welting and keep it smooth with NO dips "IF" need be as we tightened the fender up....when finished it pulls out from one side or the other.

right!!! ?????

Bttt

Thanks guy's.....and thank you very much Rick....funny I was looking through my email list yesterday and saw your address and thought"I haven't talked to Rick in quite awhile......I hope all is well with you and your wife/family??

Thought I would share my work helping a friend detail out his late 60's C10 Chevy Truck he's built a pretty stout big block for it so wanting to detail it out....he wasn't sure IF he wanted to use Stainless Socket Caps OR regular Stainless Hex Head Caps SO I did a set of both!!!! A little of...

You didn't say IF or what kind of welder you are using....One tip I got from a couple of hot rod buddies IF you are using a MIG welder......I am using .025 wire...the smaller wire keeps a little less heat in your panels...in your case, you can just do "tack" welds in a cris-cross or alternating...