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I gripped the pin straight on with a needle nose vise grips and then pried against the tip of the vise grips with a straight slot screwdriver to pull the pin out.

Those look like '35-'36 passenger rear body/bumper mounts; except car pieces usually have a hole in the horizontal bar for a body bolt.

From the shape of the now horizontal yokes, shape of the ball end, and the length it looks like it was either a '32 or more than likely a '33-34 wishbone.

Sounds like you are describing a F-100 box.

Best choice ever as a test picture.

Couple picture of an automatic trans detent arrange on a Ford manual shift column. The red thing is a bolt reshaped to act as the pin for the detent. The piece of tube with welded ears is the detent rail; the notches for park and neutral haven't been cut yet; but should get the idea. Arm length...

Perch bolt eye hole diameter is normally 3/4"; sounds like there are still sleeves in there. From your picture looks like you got the stud and the rubber stuff.

This is how the door & garnish bumpers are in my '35. If I remember right; my '33 Tudors were the same. Likely the same for your '32.

I put the regulator in the bottom of the door, tipped the glass in from the top, lowered it down, engaged the the arms in the tracks, wound the the regulator to the window to the almost full up position, lifted everything up until the crank pin fit thru the hole, installed the mounting screws...

Those U-bolts look to be way too long. Maybe the gap is there because the guy ran out of thread. A set the correct length for a '34 would be in order. Those mono leaf springs usually come with enough of the short spacers to equal a stock spring.

Shackle pins are 5/8" so their bushings should work. The overall length of a pair is a 1/4" shorter than a stock pair; but I suspect they are urethane and don't squish as much (if any) when the shackle plates bottom out on the pin. Guess if there was a little slack a washer on either side would...

Guess it depends on your or your helpers skill in getting the trans lined back up when reinstalling the engine.

If you have to make a hole in the grille; I would set it up in a vertical mill as you will likely have mill the curved fins flat where the vent seats outside of the hole itself. Well, anyway something to think about. The grille in my pictures is easily removed with a nut driver and the box...

btt

While this a '41, '40 shouldn't be that different. Made a simple "air box" out of sheet metal that fit the dash opening, couple tubes for the hoses to slip over along with a couple mounting tabs on each side. Mounted it to back of the dash with countersunk machine screws. I ran a die on the...

Sounds right; after looking closer; it's clear the inner arms are on "top" of the outer arms on his regulator; while images of other regulators show them on the "bottom". Like said it has been put together wrong.

The regulator look right. If the arms clear the dash and the knob shaft fits the hole in the dash it is what it is. The knob stays in line with the arms thru the motion; so if it is cranked way out, the knob will angle down like it is. I never found the need to crank the windshield out to it's...

I found that if you use the "search" button, then the "go advanced" button; you can search by the user name and get a list of the users post. If you don't know the user name; but have an idea of the first part of it, start entering the name and a list will build below the box and maybe you...

Re: 1940 Merc rescued “barn find” In this day & age; wonder what it would take to lay the plastic pieces out in CAD and print new ones. Obviously not something commercially viable; but could be done with the tech that is now pretty common.

If you want to get something going on your own; why not buy a chunk of 3/4" plexiglass, dig out one of the old head gaskets and a water pump gasket as patterns, take some hole saws, and make a couple fixtures and do your own pressure checks as a first step. No machine shop, no special tools, and...