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I believe you need to remove the entire park light assembly from the fender as the screw that retains the cage that holds the glass is on the bottom.

For the Y block and 215/223 owners John Mummert at ford-yblock.com has options for the F series.

The bushing is 1.5 inches long and sits .60 in from the end of the casting so armed with the length of your slip yoke you should be able to determine if it currently extends sufficiently.

Sorry to hear your tale of destruction but i have also had a radiator "repair" shop destroy one of mine. It isn't just the inexperienced that can make a mess of things some folks in all age brackets just are not craftspeople. I've had luck mending cracks in brass radiators with silver solder.

If you mean the stock F100 T98A warner gear 4 speed you will need the four speed bellhousing. The flywheel, clutch and pressure plate should work as is. This trans has the compound 1st gear useful off road but not so much on pavement depending on rear end ratio.

No relation, but possibly helpful: eBay item number:172710393909

A better bellhousing starting point as was alluded to earlier with reference to the F250 is the T98 four speed bellhousing which was an option on F100's also.

Last three "should" be: Orange- LF blinker White/Blu tracer- RF blinker Solid Green- from stop light switch

Odd man out here, I prefer the 215/223 over any Y-block. The 6 cylinder truck bellhousing is 6 cylinder only and different 3 speed light duty and BW overdrive versus 4 speed. You will need to remove the front y block frame crossmember and source the 6 cylinder mount. The exhaust on both is...

That would be about a 10% reduction in RPM. If it was me I would see if I could borrow a couple tires the same 10% larger than what you currently are running just to verify the change was what all you hoped it would be.

I don't believe the bore spacing is any different on a 215/223. The biggest difference is the location of the distributor. Car vs. truck had different motor mounts and water pumps. 61 and later the whole bottom end is different but complete short block may interchange but don't know never had...

On mine the bracket uses a hole about 3 7/8 inches inboard of the one you are referring to; sort of between the start button and the light switch.

Belated response to post #7 yes that is where the fuel line clip is anchored.

Sorry no picture, but in the posted photo it looks like the head of the pan head screw is there just painted over, just under the fluorescent tie wrap. The wiring cover uses separate fasteners.

The screw that retains the clip for the fuel line is directly beneath the innermost regulator mounting screw, below the the angular rib in the firewall and the clip is parallel to the floor.

Interested to hear the responses to the second question on available Mitchell OD ratios. The 36% OD is fairly steep, more than any modern car excluding those with 2 OD gears. 2nd gear OD with a 36% ratio is a duplicate of 3rd gear direct so not a good option if gear splitting is part of the plan.

Not that you asked, but you may also want to consider a dropped axle with stock multileaf springs. If the ride is too stiff you could remove a leaf or two to suit your tastes. Not hard to accomplish either way you decide.

Look like 41 to me, but you are missing the 2 brackets and rod and spring that hinge from the 2 slotted brackets and mount them to the floorpan riser.

In the past I've used cavity wax, Wax-oyl, Boeshield etc.

That tube has a captive rubber square ring on the bottom. Twisting it back and forth while pulling upward usually does the trick.