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Some say dot 5 is firmer, some say softer. Companies say it should be softer because 5 contains more oxygen. Some say not much difference. It’s anybody’s guess.

Here’s the one I’m trying to find a little more info on…

Haha…a senior moment. Read the wrong side of gauge. It has 18” vacuum. Has anyone used a VH44 booster which is available real reasonable?

When I got this car everything had been either replaced or rebuilt when frame off restored on ‘93-‘95. I got 7 totes of used and new parts that were replaced, rebuilt or upgraded. In those parts were a brand new unused large booster vacuum diaphram, a small diaphram and other used rebuild...

Do I have to be a member of CTCI in order to see anything. I have tried to go to their sites but they won’t even load.

This car was a consignment at GR Auto in Michigan. I had sold a custom 49 Ford I had built from scratch and driven for a few years. At 76 I didn’t want to build another car. I wanted a mostly done car to just personalize. Had always wanted a Baby Bird…preferably a 56. This one was the correct...

Thanks for the info. Even at 76 I learn something every day. Keeps a guy going.

lol. I live in the Red River valley (really flat). Interesting you mention the hand brake. When I got the car it didn’t do much. All new everything in the drums. So I adjusted them to work great. After about 100 miles they don’t do much. Not sure what the story is there. I’ll continue to mess...

Thanks for the info. Seriously hard to find a hill in the plains of ND. lol. I’m really interested hearing from someone with a similar set up as me to know how the system reacts when working.

Thanks for the info and first link. It is a midland and has silicone fluid that I assume has been in since converting to disc. The fluid is purple and very clean in the MC. I’ll make sure that vacuum is sufficient and see if I can hear the diaphragm moving. Should the pedal still drop a little...

I recently purchased a 1956 Thunderbird that had a frame off restoration finished in 1995. It only had 15k miles since restoration and had been kept in a climate controlled place. I have gone through pretty much the whole car doing maintenance to get to good driving capability. I’m having...

Need a good metal roof bow for a 1929 Tudor Sedan. The one that bolts above the B pillar. Thank you.

That makes sense. Thank you. Now if I had a good metal bow. Mine was bent badly on one end and isn't straightening very well.

I am installing a Macs wood kit in my Tudor. There are 7 roof bows. All are the same length. One is about a 1/4" thinner and has no notch or hole on the ends. Can any one tell me where the lonely one goes? I did not have any old bows to go by. Thank you...

BTTT for the last two items.

Cleaning the shop. Left overs. Prefer Paypal. PM for details. All prices plus shpg. 1935 Ford front license brkt. $10 1941 Ford spring shackles. Will lower 5/8 inch more than other years. Fits front or rear. Bolted on - took off. $5

sold

Built from a 40 year stored original. It wasn't perfect, but was nice and pretty complete. Was not body off build. Original drive train, new plugs, points, wiring, rebuilt 94 carb, rebuilt fuel pump, rebuilt water pumps, Reds headers & pipes, 12” glasspacks, 40 Ford start/generator system...

SOLD 1935 Ford Tudor Slantback sedan - original drivetrain. Info and lots of pics here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=623031 More pics here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=765 Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gX290Bt3734 Possible trades...

I've had insurance with Hagerty for over ten years. Had a major claim in '95. Adjuster was here in two days and I had a very reasonable check in hand within a week. Outstanding in my book.