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I had a similar problem on my 1923 a few years ago. It would idle fine but started missing as the revs went up. One evening the car was idling in the workshop and the mains electricity in the workshop went off. I noticed a spark jumping from the timer wiring loom towards the coil box terminals...

Which linings have you fitted? I used the cheaper option on my 1923 Tourer in 2009 and they lasted one trip. They were just too thin. Change to Kevlar and have done over 5000 miles since and plenty of adjustment left.

A friend of mine has a very nicely restored 35 V8 Sedan. What oil should he use in the shocks? He has Lovemore single actions fitted. Regards

I agree that the car is savable. With the availability of "A" parts (original and reproduction) in your part of the world, it can be done but I would suggest finding a replacement frame and starting rebuilding from there, closely examining every part salvaged. Please keep us posted on your progress.

I need dimensions to make the round style handles for my 1918. They are missing. Any assistance would be appreciated.

I have converted the roller on my 1914 and 1923 by replacing it with 2 sealed ball bearings of the same outer diameter as the original roller. I have covered thousands of miles without problems. Much less wear on the housing and does not require frequent oiling or cleaning.

I have used a good coat of aerosol silver spray on a copper gasket. Helps to seal water leaks too. Also works great when a copper gasket needs to be reused in an emergency.

The panels on my 28 Roadster were much worse. I clamped them to the sub-rails and started the repairs. Used some patch panels that were available and made up the rest.

I have just fitted the horns on my RHD 28 Roadster and Phaeton, definitely on the left. I have 4 rad surrounds, all have the extra hole on the left.

If you move the timing lever it will "break" the points. I don't have a distributer on my T's but this method has worked occasionally on a 1930 Chevy by pulling the timing retard knob out.

Which motor do you have? Aluminum or Cast Iron heads? The early aluminum heads are very porous and corrode easy. I had that problem on a 1934 Coupe with the 21 stud motor. The water escaped down the cylinders and also causes a hydraulic lock. The RH side head was the culprit in my case.

Great to know that there are young people interested. You have more parts than I had when I started with my 1918 Runabout. I only had a chassis. I have been busy with it for 4 years and hope to complete it in the next 3 months. I purchased my first old car when I was 13 years old and I still...

Yes, the rivets had failed. It was not apparent until I removed the hogshead. The whole assembly simply fell back into place under the spring pressure and the support of the 4th bearing guide when nothing was rotating.

This happened to my 1914 last year. Stepped on the brake, followed by horrific grinding and knocking sounds.The car would not stop or engage low or top gear, reverse had no effect and ran for 300 meters before stopping! I could then start the engine in neutral without any noise until a gear was...

Thank you Steve. I have been searching the forums over the past few months and found very useful information. The springs are a bit expensive to bring in to South Africa. We are leaving on a tour next week in the 1914 T and a friend has a 1915 that was restored from scrap in 1973. He made his...

I am busy building a 1918 Model T Runabout from parts. I need detail on the seat springs and the body tub interior prior to the upholstery being fitted. Regards Tom