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The block has both deck holes plugged with 1/2 plugs, and extra insurance both water pump holes plugged too.

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His heads are not like those, they do not say Tattersfield on them. But I do like that water manifold better.

My Ardun had a roller cam in it when I got it. Built in the early 50's. It had 3/4 roller wheel and knocked at the top. They had welded in studs in the block and a piece of angle iron to keep the lifters from turning. I still have it. My plan if I were to use it was to use 1" KB link lifters. 1"...

I think somebody drilled that center hole for 3 bolts. My brothers just has the 4 bolts and that one appears to have a vac hole which ours does not have.

I think the clutch arm is clocked differently between the two.

It looks cast iron, I have never seen a cast iron one. Anyway, it is off a 351 Windsor lower haft of a EFI intake. Probably truck.

KiWinUS, Yes we did cast cranks the same way. Some came out good others had a lot of porosity. I still have a 3 7/8 stroke crank I did way back then. Its not welded just offset ground.

When I started in the machine shop business back in the 70's, we had a crank welder. It was a machine you set stroke and it wire feed wire on the crank to build it up. Welding could of been done without a machine, have seen it done. I would guess that in the 40's if strokers were made it was...

Re: wanted or just scrap — NOS Y block It is a FE. I don't see any cross bolts so not a 427. Also is has 4 engine mount holes so it is 65 and newer. If it has a 4.130 bore that would make it a 428 and worth something to somebody.

There used to be a product called body Schultz. Pretty much the same stuff Ford used. Takes a special gun to shoot it. I have been just using cans of spray on rubberized undercoating, looks the same and does the same job. I would not bother to take any old stuff out, just spray over it.

Usually, the only difference is auto plate have a removable bottom to access the convert bolts, but there are two different plates one for 157 tooth and one for 164 tooth flywheel/flex plates. Difference being the starter is moved out on the larger one.

Flathead and Y block did not use a block plate, everything else did, manual and automatic.

I believe it is the backing plates. Early Shelby's used Fairlane wagon rear brakes to get 2" shoes on the back.

Be interesting to know any tag or casting numbers on that. It is a 3 speed with over drive, but what I see in the pictures says to me it has an early top loader tail housing on it. My experience with the od trans is the rear output bearing is larger, so that tail hosing had to be opened up a...

Michael, I enjoyed your video, it's much like my own place! I bought an old 50's Ford dealer parts inventory many years ago. It's now a bunch of stuff I will never use, so all I can say, is do you need some more parts?

Years ago, I started on my project, I used a 6 cyl flathead pressed bellhousing on the back of a V8 flathead with a Mustang T5. I did put the S10 tail housing on the Mustang trans. The 6cyl bell was deeper than a V8 so no adaptors. The bottom two bolts go right in for the T5 but there is nowhere...

My method is to have the piston near top and then feed in some rope as much as you can, be sure to leave a tail, then turn the piston up till you can't go any farther. Now you are ready to remove springs. Back the piston back down pull the rope and you are done.

All nine of my carbs have the vent caps. (3 different set ups, Bird and Galaxie) I have to think the ones without the caps have had the bowls replaced at some time in their life. They should still function ok without the cap. I have gone out of my way to take a replacement bowl and machine it...

Best way to check bent rod is to check side clearance. All rods float on the crank pin, just see if they float side to side. Side clearance is only around .010 to .018 on a V8. If it won't float on the crank and the piston pin, its bound up somewhere.