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Assuming choice of stocker...Ford supplied the 1942 cam, 29A part number, as the replacement for all '32-48. If you get that one you also need the little cam extension button to use '36 front cover and distributor.

I think this is well covered here...but I'd add in some more on the pedal itself. 1. return spring should return pedal to top very positively. 2. Bushings...worn out bushings and shaft can produce very eccentric pedal movement and the possibility of pedal stopping at positions other than...

Canadian trucks and carriers got the PCV system. My info is from scattered hints in a bunch of different manuals, mostly from CMP trucks, and I have posted a bunch on them here. PCV first appears in the 1943 edition of the truck manual, no way to tell how much earlier the hardware appeared, but...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/flathead-cores-jpg.401457/

I once bought one that was filled right to the top wit fine silt hardened into practically sandstone. I think it was quite possibly just drizzling gas through in a Model A gravity situation, and ran until it was totally blocked. Anyway, I sat down and went to work with various sharp objects...

The square shank you need to grip is 9/16...if you bend a 9/16 combination into a U you will be real close to the Snap-on purpose made tool. Just add an old socket at the top for a wrench extension. If you make one, the curve and spacing needed can be easily determined on a sender that's not...

And I mis-arranged my notes...The so-called raised service was '41-WWII, the side ridges down to the plugs (on the pan rails of block) was '39-40. You need to remove a head to spot whether 221 or 239; The arrangements of water holes at center will settle this even if it's a 221 bored to 239...

I think the violent rush of oil was a feature, not a bug...but oriented toward real service stations with a big drain and catcher that could be put right up under a car on a hoist. I think the rush (remember, this replaced an earlier pan with regular small plug and hole) was intended to rush...

The long-crankshaft engines, 1939 up, use a crank nut that is 1 1/8 hex, not the 1/38 early one. Most good brand ones will go on there but due to short hex within the socket most only partially grip so you need to turn carefully. You should be able to rotate the engine within the limitations of...

AS heads are iron. The C in the PN designates Canadian manufacture...Some Canadian aluminum heads had slightly higher than irn CR's, probably just enough to compensate for the slight power loss. There is a Canadian service bulletin page listing CC's An CR ratings for nearly all USA and Canadian...

Dual coil probably like numerous DC conversions on 59A distributors...I know there were commercial ones and home made ones (much simpler than all the crazy extra plastic used on HC 21A conversions) but I have never seen one with a label identifying a commercial source. Commonest way: A brass...

Or if you have a dirty old pump in your junk pile, try an old spring. Squeezing it by hand will easily show a huge difference between a spring from the day when pumps were made or rebuilt by parts companies making them for use and those making them now from whatever is most easily...

Why not just hook up the gravity tank again and see if you have the leak still? That will speedily tell you if pump is the problem. Also check pressure...I've heard of new flathead pumps coming through with 7 pound diaphragm springs from much later model applications. I have no idea if that...

Re: 8BA clutch finger adjsutement The Ford adjustment instructions are in the '46 V8 engine overhaul book (the more common later editions lack that section) and in the transmission/overdrive/clutch book which is readily available in reprint. You can get it from Van Pelt sales...while there you...

There are a bunch of variants of these carbs...the Model # is on driver's side of bowl, stuff like EC-6, and will ID the application. The outside valve is an extra kink in the vacuum system for the Holly distributor.

Pretty sure you have (assuming Ford type lock and switch) a repro switch body. Bad contacts heat it up and the badly chosen plastic softens enough for the contacts to sink in...go get the original, open it up, and clean and polish everything.

Klein makes a small strap wrench of some sort of fabric covered with soft, almost sticky rubber-like stuff. VERY grippy and kind to surfaces.

Several years back the Smithsonian had that car on display! Here's their writeup: http://amhistory.si.edu/onthemove/collection/object_263.html

FWIW, Ford offered an electromagnetically controlled fan as an accessory in about '46-8. They put the thermostatic switch in the lower left hose with an adapter similar to those used for heaters, since the early pumps had no port for these purposes.

On manifolds: The aluminum short/iron long rule is generally true but not 100% so on Ford manifolds. On aftermarket, about everything is aluminum and both of the '35-48 heights can be found. SIMPLE way to sort, wish i had exact numbers written down, but since there are only two common choices...