Search results

Those are also correct for a 56 Mainline.

Punctuation is your friend.

These clips are installed in the square punched holes by inserting the short tab so it abuts the edge of the hole and push in the long tab in to the hole. While holding the clip in place with one hand, insert an awl or similar tool to spread the long tab tight against its side of the hole. To...

Maybe the sheave (pulley) is worn and it is time for a new one.

Not 100% certain on a 56, but my 55 has the suction side (water pump fitting) routed to the lower hose on the heater core.

I think it is 56 or later judging by the dish depth. Mercury maybe?

thecvaonline.com/howtos/DataPlateDecoder.pdf This should help.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-ford-customline.988052/ Here is a link to my HAMB listing.

Is the clutch stuck?

Actually, from a dead stop in drive, you can stand on it and it should drop (automatically-pun intended) into low gear. Then ease off the accelerator and it will probably bypass second gear and shift into high. Pretty cool ****** once you get all that monkey-motion linkage dialed in.

You might check to see if you have a phenolic spacer between your carb's base and the intake manifold. That will help insulate the carb from boil over/evaporation when you shut down.

Existing driven gear tooth count X 1.187 = new required tooth count. (3.56 ÷ 3)

I have the 3.00 in my 55 Customline with 312 and a CruiseOMatic. Runs great and only spins about 2400 rpms at 70 mph. 26.5 inch tall tire.

3.00:1 ratio is readily available aftermarket for the 9 inch.

Cruise-O was available from 58-62 for y-block cars. 61 and later featured a vacuum modulater. Other FE powered car green dot Cruise-O transmissions can be mated to a y-block if you have the correct converter, flexplate and bellhousing. 61 and 62 bell housings were aluminum and save about 50lbs.

To do it correctly you need to remove the glass front and rear,

Drop the oil pan and cleanthe crud out of the strainer. Switch to a spin on filter and replace the oil pump.

Check to see if the flex plate bolts are too long, or maybe you left off a round spacer.

Use a 6 point. You will most likely need to spend some time with the socket and the old bench grinder to reduce the outside diameter and to eliminate the lead-in chamfer. That bolt that holds the adapter has a real shallow head. Also an air impact wrench with several u-joints and extensions is...

They will absolutely clear no problem.