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I found out the hard way that if you replace the king pin bushings that they have to be honed out before you install the new king pins.

Test your voltage regulator. It's a remote possibility that the points can fuse.

Are you talking bare block?

I love learning new stuff about old cars.

Don't skimp on the quality of sealant you use.

Good luck.

Live and learn...

If it was mine, I'd at least try this solution. Your axle threads don't look "stripped" so much as worn.

The school of hard knocks is about the only source for learning about these old cars. Thanks for everyone on this forum who is willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us newbies!

Looks like fun!

I'm learning as I go about old car restoration. I've found out the hard way that there are many significant differences between my one ton truck and the more common half tons. Brake drums are very different and scarce and I'm having a hard time finding a replacement for the right front drum...

Sold

Barn finds are best. Then take them to an auction!

Thanks rotorwrench. I found a guy in Indiana that rebuilds brake drums. He did a great job on the rear brakes (15”) and the front left one. I damaged the right front one during disassembly and need to find a replacement.

There was a monster buck in my back yard last evening chasing three does. It’s rutting season!

When my dad and grandpa started in the automotive repair business, cars from this era are what people were bringing in for them to work on.

WTB 1938 one ton front brake drum. 12" drum; 3.25" center; 3/4" studs; 7" bolt pattern; 2" brake bands.

Condolences...

Does anyone out there know where I can find a front brake drum for a 1938 Ford one ton (122" WB) truck? It is a 12" drum with a 3 1/4" center, 3/4" studs, on 7" bolt pattern and inside the drum hub mount.

Bell housing and throw out fork from a 1938 one ton "crash box" $10 ... buyer pays actual shipping