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....no big drama,once the fountain dries up, clean up the thread and instal a carby threaded stud in the hole with some sealant on it,then just use a nut on top to secure the distributor.....if you've mangled the thread,go to the next size up and tap the hole to suit.

That is what we had here for 1940 , I presumed they were Canadian in origin...but maybe they were an export item?.....

...while you're at it,remove the points and clean the contact faces. It's common for corrosion to form and prevent current flow, your sparking with the screwdriver suggests this is the likely problem.

Nope,shoes are different in the hole size at the bottom where the eccentrics are on the 39/41 plate, later cylinders are bigger bore but will interchange.

Hi Sam,the answer is no....nothing from factory is ever welded to the frame or crossmembers, if they did it then it would be riveted like the rest of the frame.

We were there too,pity we didn't catch up! It was a sad old Ute, seemed to have a lot of '40 stuff fitted to it . Did it sell? We were pleasantly surprised by the amount of early V8 parts on offer , doesn't happen down here anymore.....we brought back a truckload of stuff including a '40 Std...

Hi Alan, no,they're all the same. The brochures are artists renderings, not always absolutely accurate and tend towards making the cars look disproportionate. The Roadster that's here on Ebay has likely had aftermarket electric motors installed above the screen , possibly done when there were no...

Hi,wipers for the '38Std. are supposed to be in the cowl ,same as in US cars. ...this is a local '38 Std.Roadster Utility ,same cowl,different back section and shorter doors. As Trevor said, parts are unique to this model and are very hard to find....

Hi,no is the answer. Early bolt size is 3/8", the '37 and up cars use a 1/2" bolt size, cheers.....

...sorry,it's what we call a '59 Ford......

Hi Lawrie, looks like a Tank Fairlane ( that'll confuse the US blokes:D) manual trans to me, cheers....

Hey mate,that first pic shows some pretty deep pits.....it'd be worth your while to clean out all the dirt and rust with a bearing scraper to see how far gone it is. What is your plan with it?, try to use use it or just keep it for a spare ?

Hiya, second one is late 1941,third is 1942 thru 46 and the last is possibly the light retainers for the first pair, and they are likely to be aftermarket conversions for '37/8/9std....my guess anyway :)

.....nope,it's a stinker. I'd be wary of the bearings if they came from the same source. Might be worth trying to source some here in Oz...you could try AA Bearings in Mitcham,Vic, the guy who runs it (Dennis) deals in older car bearings and seals and is a good guy to deal with. Number is 03...

...or...seein' he's got the lid off ,put it in 2 gears...that'll stop it from turning!

Yep, the uni has a bolt down the inside,9/16 socket will fit and once it's off you'll see the 6 bolts that hold the mounting to the case,same socket size. You may have to do a little excavation in the grease to find them,but they're there.....As mentioned,slip one bolt and a flat washer back in...

...your pic is '37 /39,they do come out easy...but have a look at the 35/6 pics that Talkwrench just put on and you'll see the difference,and the problem.....

Hiya, '37 and up will come out that way fairly easily, but as you've discovered the "ears" on the trans clog up the works in '35/6. Generally it's easier to pull the out engine and trans as an assembly in the usual way,then remove the trans and deal with whatever dramas you have. Also by doing...

yep,as Bruce says.....:cool:

Hi T/W, the blokes have missed part of your question, in the first pic with the screwdriver , that side faces the inside ....or if you like,the oil side. Here's a couple of shots of another version of "the tool" :) above shows the seal sitting on the stepped plate.... .....and the whole...