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I have a 1930 Blindback Fordor that needs a new home. Health issues prevent me from continuing. This is from the frame up. Some running gear included. It is disassembled. Original eyebrow fenders and special cowl band included. It had a hard life, but still exists. Please contact me for details...

Eyebrow fenders from about the first 6 weeks on the 1930 run. I have 2 and almost all of the rest of the car in need of a new home.

That is where an oil pressure guage is connected.

Back to oil in the cylinders. Pull the distributor and pour a quart down the hole. That puts new oil in the valve body and feeds the mains. Pull the oil plug and check the flow when cranking the first time.

There are a few options available for a "tool" to keep the oil pump from dropping out when you remove the clean-out plate. I made one for mine out of some extra bits. Just do not tighten it too much and damage anything. Bratton's sells one for 6 bucks.

Aerokroil has some magical properties. Try to get some on both ends of the screws and give it some time. The impact driver will have a better chance after that.

The rear mount will take some load off of the side engine mounts. They are not particularly thick. I fear they might fail without that extra mount.

Welcome!

I use distilled water to clear the scale out of the cooling system. Fill, run, drain. Repeat until it drains clean. Then use antifreeze.

Try Aero-Kroil. Being upside down, it should soak in nicely. Give it a few days. A thin pipe or conduit might fit over the shaft and let you gently tap the bottom of the distributor that is stuck.

Borrow or rent an inspection camera. Pull the fill tube and look around in there. Have someone turn it over with the hand crank and check clearances. This is the easy way to get started. Any hard work is after this.

It is a band-aid, but a cutout switch should be added. I had an ammeter go bad at a show. Smoking like crazy until I threw the switch. A lot of guys were talking about getting one after that .

Ream it carefully. These cars shake and a snug fit helps hold the needle setting.

When I did this I bought a few cases of distilled water. Fill, run, drain, repeat. At some point the drained water looks fairly clean. Finish by putting in a good coolant mix. It leached a lot of gunk out of the entire cooling system. Just do not leave it in there for long.

Is your timing set correctly? Some form of vapor-lock?

Is there a baffle on the rear trans bearing? You might want to check the levels after each longer drive.

I had this problem during a rebuild that had a thread repair that altered clearance. I got two thin mylar washers with a drop if turbine oil between them. No more problem.

If it is a sticky mess, pull the oil fill tube and see what the dip tray looks like. Pulling the pan is not fun but easier than pulling the motor for a rebuild.

The LED turn signals are great. The best feature is the 4-way blinkers. They are great when you have to stop unexpectedly. Get a good set.