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Still for sale. Price reduced now $27,000. Will entertain offers but not interested in trades.

For Sale 1926 Ford Roadster Driven approx. 500 miles since finished in 2022 First in Class 2022 GNRS and Club Pick Class winner 2023 Antique Nationals. Participant Pasadena Roadster Club Reliability Run 2024 and 2025. Photo documented build from day one. All steel original Ford body on Model A...

Trans and wheels are still available.

I'm converting a 1933 BB to a pickup. I have chassis parts I wish to get rid of for free. From a short wheelbase truck I have as pictured: Front end Rear end Four speed trans Drive line components Six wheels with lugnuts Located in Corona CA, I'm not interested in shipping it or parting it...

Here's my rerouted oil line to hopefully get more oil to the rockers...

OK I'll follow that recommendations. Thanks. After considering everyone's input I think I'm going to reroute the the external line that feeds oil to the head. I'll post a picture as soon as I get it done.

I think I could probably get by with a 3/16" line. I might try that instead of 1/4".

how about adding a restrictor at the front of the galley if I did that what size hole would provide adequate flow to the dipper tray but still increase oil pressure?

with 30psi input to the middle of the galley , the pressure measured at the rear of the galley is 4psi. The pressure at the front of the galley is not enough to travel up the 1/4" external line to the head. It is just enough to piss a little bit out the fitting if I remove the line while...

I have given this some thought. Then I'll probably be installing a restrictor at the head to reduce the flow as recommended by the head manufacturer.

I have a (somewhat) stock B engine with a Steve Serr overhead conversion and a high volume oil pump that creates 30psi pressure to the galley after the full flow filter . Once the oil reaches the galley there is not enough oil pressure to pump oil through the external line to the head to oil...

I just ordered a set also, thinking they were self locking but turns out they aren't. So just to be very clear about this. Are you installing them without any form of locking device? Do you stake them or anything else?

Yeah, I've already ordered one from Steve Surr.

Took my cast iron Cragar head to be pressure tested and as I suspected it is cracked. It is leaking from the water jacket into the exhaust port from around the #2 and 3 exhaust guides. Anybody have any experience repairing this type of crack?

Yes I agree with you and from my experience I believe the valve lash should decrease not increase. I would expect the valve lash to diminish once the lifter moves off the base circle. Anyway, so far I haven't done anything other than scratch my head and wonder. So I guess I'm going to have to...

You are correct, is didn't explain this very well. I set it a .013 on the heel and rotated the crank in reverse about 180 degrees and check the clearance and it has grown to .025.

I've got a rebuilt B block with a Cragar head. Virtually all of it is rebuilt or new including re-ground cam and new lifters. I've had a lot of break in problems with the side draft weber carb. I've got one loud lifter at all rpm. So with the exhaust valves set at .013 on the number one...

I'm sure going to miss it. Thanks for the update.

Has the final issue of FAST Magazine been published and mailed out?

Thanks for the tip. I hadn't thought about leather belts but have considered the other two ideas.