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Hey Russel, I wimped out and bought a new horn rod. Works great. I saved the old on a and my rebuild it some day. The tip of my old one is chewed up and shorted out when I installed the light switch. Grant up in good old Essex, not Junction, by golly

Thanks guys. I tried that but my fat fingers would not let me get the shim in place so I made a tool that spread the break shoes allowing the wedge to drop lower and let me put the shim in. Problem now is the after market shim did not seem to seat fully. My spreader holds the shoes far enough...

I need to shim the actuating rod in my front brakes. Would like to di it without taking the everything apart? I have the pills, just would like to find a way to insert them.

Very happy with my fuse mounted on the starter. If I am not planning in using the car for a while, I remove the fuse.

If I was a bit closer would be glad to give a hand. Post when you get er going and tell what you had to do. Always interesting.

Ill be listening....

After reading this I decided to install mine. New wiring harness, parts did not want to go together, fiddled and fiddled, bale would not hold it in place, took bake iffy beat ut. ti tighten,, put it together, lights would not come on, horn would blow, ......... mowed lawn.

Beautiful, Jim, thanks all.

Thanks Son, but isn't that the opposite of what Wes Andrews says about installing those locking pins? Any more comment about aligning the grooves on the locking pin? I tried fitting kingpin and locking pin together outside of the axel and they sorta fit together so I guess I will try to align...

Very helpful, Model A Army and I are going to have some fun figuring out which goes where. I think the fact that the press in fittings have round bases and the screw in don't should help. I am waiting for my delivery from Snyders.

What was the thickness of the original Model A kingpin thrust bearings? Just wondering.

Many thanks Russell. Still having steering problems so going back to square one...

They have grooves.Should they be aligned in a special way or just drive em in... from the front of course.

Wow, Robert, you and I are pretty much the same vintage. I am 88 and the loss of upper body strength is awful. I have been agonizing but decided to pull my front end apart again after installing new king pins and all. I will go through the steps again and see if I can find where I went wrong...

I like the idea of a 2 tooth assembly. No problem getting it to fit? I check all of my springs and they are all the same dimension.

Wow, fantastic responses. So, if I understand correctly, I do not need to drill and tap, I can simply remove the early type of press/hammer in fittings and replace with modern press/hammer fittings?

Ha, Naf, funny. If this had been posted two months ago we could have made a deal. Alll I needed was the seat covers and could not find a dealer who would sell only the covers... I finally made my own. Too bad!

I want to replace the original grease fittings on my front spindles. What size should I use, what size drill and tap? Never done this before. Eventually want to replace all the old fittings. Right now the car is about 50/50 new and original.

29, 7 tooth box. No contact between any of the moving parts. A real mystery. As I mentioned the connection at the pitman arm ball seems to have been way too tight, but only enough to get the cotter pin in. I looked for some kind of foreign object when I took it apart but it all seems to be as...

Removed the drag link from the drivers side wheel and the wheels turn easily. Where the drag link is attached to the pitman arm is apparently the problem.The slotted nut was driven in too tight and is now disassembled on the bench. Wheels are turning freely connected by the tie rod. Strangly, it...