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Damn, how did I manage to lose the oil pressure dashboard socket. Like the generator idiot light, it does not ground to the dashboard but has two wires out the back of it. I don't suppose anyone has an extra one that they could part with for a price? Tom

Eureka, dash is now sitting on my work bench ready for paint. Thanks everyone for your help! https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

I do have a 1955 Ford Shop Manual. Not sure how different it is from a 1956 manual. I don't see anything in there regarding the "Left Air" cable and how to release it. I was able to get the windshield wiper motor out so I could release that cable. Now the only thing holding the dash in is...

I do have a '55 Ford shop manual but I don't see anything in it addressing how disconnect the "left air" cable. Is there a 1956 shop manual? BTW, I was able to pull out the windshield wiper motor which allowed me to release the wiper control cable. So all that's keeping the dash in the car is...

Shop manual ordered and on its way.

Great information from everyone, thanks so much. Especially for the suggestion that I should first remove the dashboard! I was afraid that I would have to spend a month with my feet sticking up and my head jammed under the dash trying to run new wiring by Braille I had assumed that I would...

Many thanks for all this great information. Yes, the car is a driver. I've looked around for a copy of the "1956 FORD ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLY MANUAL" but I couldn't come up with one. Does anyone have a copy? Is so, can we come up with a way to get a copy sent to me? Depending on your faith in...

Well, I think it's time for a new wire harness for our '56 Ford Country Sedan. The old one is a Painless (as if!) and has become unreliable. One day the headlights don't work, then when I fix that, the dashboard lights don't come on. The current harness was installed some time ago by parties...

Thank you to all! I finally got my NOS headlight switch and it worked just the way it's suppose to. No more driving by Braille when driving home at night with no headlights!

Thanks Paul- I'm not familiar with NOS or NORS? Inquiring minds need to know more.

I seem to be snake bit when it comes to the headlight switch for my '56 Country Sedan. I've purchased 3 of them over the last couple of years and they all seem to have the same problem, the knob and rod pull completely out when I try to turn on the headlights. A couple of nights ago, I tried...

Thank you ALL! For the record, the WIX filter that the crack team at O'Reilly first gave (51522XP) has a different sized threaded spin-on shaft than the one Paul recommended (51515). Got the right one and all good. So for the record, there appear to be at least two different sized shafts on...

After reading up on my '56 292, it appears that my engine was just on the cusp of when Ford started to install spin-on filters as standard. I think the cutoff date was '57 so the one on my engine may be an adapter. Still leaves me with the question of why the WIX filter I bought today wouldn't...

First let me state categorically that I'm an idiot I finally got around to changing my oil today on our '56 Country Sedan with a 292 Y-block. That's not the stupid part. I removed the oil filter and handed it to my local O'Reily sales person, who handed me back something that looked similar...

Paul, thank you so much! I hadn't run across CASCO before now and it opens up a whole world for me. Much appreciated!!!

I'm looking for the vacuum advance brass fitting and copper tube for the distributor diaphragm. This is for a 292 Y-block distributor. Threads are 3/8-24. It looks like a brake line but smaller. I know I don't have a flair tool small enough to do it myself so hopefully someone knows of one...

I have not been able to get the vacuum advance on my '56 Y-block 292 to seal at the distributor diaphragm end. I'm pretty sure that it's the fitting at the that's buggered up. It looks similar to a brake line fitting but smaller. Threads are 3/8-24. I've combed the parts store but they all...

I've replaced the generator in my '56 Country Sedan with an alternator and rewired the car with a Painless harness. Everything is working except I'm not getting the amp light to illuminate when the ignition is on but not running. There is power passing through the bulb to the white exciter...

I've been having issues with my headlight switch. inconsistent contacts for headlights/taillights and when on, the metal case gets too hot to touch. I understand that the ceramic dimmer rheostat is intended to get hot but I didn't think it was suppose to migrate to the rest of the switch. It...

Hi All- Can someone tell me what internal ballasted coil I should be using on my 292 Y-block. Many thanks, Tom