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Given that SCAT seems to have fixed their crankshaft issues for a 21-stud engine, then I'd go this route - it will be a heck of a lot cheaper than doing all the custom work required to drop a later Merc crank into the block. I am a bit interested in the journal radius issue that Ronnie spoke...

If going the late Merc crank route (which is what I'd do) -> I would run the full-floater 21A or 91A rods and have the rod journals sized to match. If you're going to the trouble of reducing the rod journals to 1.999, you might as well offset grind the journals for another 1/8" of stroke. When...

Thanks Ryan! As a software professional, I understand the level of work and much appreciate you!

Keep in mind, he may not actually have a starter solenoid - as it didn't come with one. The original car had a big ole' foot operated starter switch (between the pedals) - there was no solenoid. You can only use that remote switch if somebody has done an upgrade to your starter circuit and...

Thank You Ryan . . . we MUCH appreciate all you do for us. We get to enjoy this stie for zero $$$ - which is more than a blessing.

Truth be told, you could probably use more carb than even the 48's. Consider 50's era Holley 2110's or the big Strombergs that Tim mentioned. If you don't want to go this route, then I'd run the 48's and I'd also install a quality AFR/O2 meter in your exhaust system. It is very important to...

Usually the issue is just rust and corrosion on the head of the bolt. I use a 6-point socket and a hammer to drive it on the bolt end and then use an impact wrench on low to try to get it out of there. On reassembly, I always use stainless bolts with a lot of anti-seize on them! BTW: That...

I have no LBs . . . so no markings on any of them . . . :D:D:D

I've used a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then a metal chisel with half-round end to tap and get under the sleeve the then a hammer to collapse the edge of the sleeve and hammer the sleeve out. Pretty easy job and no flames under the car. ;)

I really like the stance . . . looks awesome in my book. I don't think the chassis has rust that was painted over, more like rust pitting that was not finished out. They could have filled the pits and made the older parts look fresh and new. I read that they had about $225K in the car...

Nice post Glen! I need to finally add a right-side taillight to my 32 cabriolet - this picture will help me plan the project! Thanks!

Thanks Karl . . . I kind of figured there were multiple ones - didn't imagine 4 different ones!

If you're going to mill the heads, one needs to measure the piston crown height at TDC on BOTH cylinder banks. Frequently one side will have a different height than the other. I always shoot for .040 to .045 of quench . . . really helps improve the performance of a flathead. Also...

Hey Karl, are they different than other models of rumble-seat based 32's? Dang near everything body related on a Cabriolet is different - it would not surprise me that the hinges are also different. ;)

Hey Tim - it depends on the style. On a traditional full-race style relief, they are between .150 and .187 deep. One thing to note, when running a deeper relief and also a supercharger with some real boost, sometimes I will move the ring pack down a bit - to keep some heat out of the upper...

I kind of like them . . . and would polish them up! They'll need to be redomed and one wonders why only one head was decked? I'm always suspicious when I see partially done machine work!

Great News! Glad to see that you've rebuilt the engine and are close to the magical moment of starting it up! That is one of the best things about building engines - the first startup is like Christmas . . . though there is usually a good mix of anxiety and excitement all rolled into one...

Just so you know, you can't just drop in any T5 transmission without a lot of other work: 1) It won't fit in your stock frame without semi-major frame modifications in the middle area where the transmission mounts. 2) The stock setup uses a torque-tube and driveshaft that will not bolt up to...

While we're on the subject . . . Here is a good look at a stock relief --> as used in industrial, some trucks and other heavy-duty situations. This is 42 WWII block - NOS. Here is the same block after I performed an experimental stepped relief. There is a raised flow eyebrow to direct...

Earlier production Edelbrock 39 - 48 heads used to have a right and a left . . . to compensate for the different valve angles in their chambers. All the modern versions are the same (side to side) - at least as far as I know. I really don't like the modern chambers, but they are what they are...