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Late 1931 Model A gas tank for indented firewall. Looks good, some surface rust inside. Can send photos on request. Pick up in central Vermont or will ship at buyer's expense (likely expensive).

When running my 1931 Model A the ammeter pegs on the charge (+) side, so it appears to be overcharging. How do I adjust the generator to turn down the charging rate? It's running a modern (electronic) cutout.

It's been talked about for years, the oldtimers are passing on and new generations are coming into Model A ownership. There have been a lot of recent posts on other venues, such as Facebook, about people who have bought or inherited Model A's and have really no clue how to start, drive and fix...

There have been several recent posts about the poor quality of the reproduction Model A transmission bearings and was wondering if there are similar concerns with the reproduction rear wheel bearings?

Looks like a 1930 standard roadster.

I finally got around to starting the Model A last weekend and I'll be danged it wouldn't start. It would crank over, but no fire. What the heck? it was running fine when put away last fall. I was just about to start troubleshooting when I spied the gas gage was reading below zero. My grandkids...

Anyone have an off-the-shelf rattle can (Rustoleum, etc.) paint that is close to Tacoma Cream for Model A wheels? This is for a driver, not a show car.

I was trying to figure out a good way to get the beads into the tire (tube) and discovered that a cheap plastic kitchen baster works quite well. Remove the rubber bulb and fill it beads, put it back on and then turn the baster over and gently squeeze the beads into the tube. Easy peasy.

The grandkids were pretending to drive the Model A the other day and I happened to be in the front and noticed when the steering wheel was turned the front axle moved back and forth on the drivers side. I had replaced the wishbone rubber ball and related parts, but have a feeling there shouldn't...

I just purchased one of the newest repop 20 amp ammeters for around $8 and it's a piece of junk. The tabs on the bezel don't match the cutouts in the instrument panel, the "glass" is now a thin piece of plastic, if you tip it too far forward or upside down the needle falls out (it can be put...

Were the nuts that hold the head to the block painted at the factory? The repros are cad plated is that correct?

As a follow up to my recent "Bent Valve" posting, in checking the valve clearances for the other seven valves (non-adjustable tappets), five were good ranging from .013 to .015, however valve #2 (intake) was .025 and valve #1 (exhaust) was .052. Yup, no typo .052. Most of the bell end was ground...

Since changing engines in the Model A last summer from one in a running chassis there has been a clicking sound coming from the front of the engine that sounded like a valve out of adjustment. Unfortunately this engine doesn't have adjustable valves so it meant pulling the head and replacing the...

Does anyone know how much one rotation (360 deg.) of the tie rod changes the toe in/out?

I had a pretty good (bad) shimmy in the front end of the Model A that seemed to come and go depending on travel speed. My passenger said it seemed to be coming from the right front wheel, so when I got back home I jacked up that side and placed a piece of 2x8 against the tire and spun the wheel...

Pulled the right front wheel on the spare chassis and found this open brake drum assembly. It fits and works fine, but I've never seen one like this, is it truck? [/url][/IMG]

I have a generator on my Model A Roadster and a very similar generator on my Model A chassis. These are the type of generator that has two wires that come out of the housing. One wire is grounded to the generator housing using the screws which attach the cutout to the housing. On one the other...

Over the years I've heard remarks that the original style headlight wiring connection at the rear base of the lamp is problematic and is commonly bypassed. I just got the parts from Synders and it seems pretty straightforward to me, so what's the issue?

In reading the engine removal instructions in the Les Andrews book, he says to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, the distributor, oil filler pipe, etc. If I'm just doing an engine swap, can those items be left on the engine during removal and installation? It seems to me they won't be...

I did a Forum "search" and couldn't find the answer; are 30/31 coupe rear fenders the same as roadster? If not, what's the difference? Thanks