Search results

Shortdoor, My sedan-coupe inner door looks to be about 1-3/4” in width at the seal, vs yours looks about 2”. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

The rubber bushings are not sandwiched; they are on the bottom. I believe the rubber cover on the top of the board is sandwiched between the body/sill and the metal of the board.

See the attached photo of my disassembled bolts. I think you’re asking about the one with the tape around it. I’m guessing 5/16”-24???

From my ‘46 Mercury with steel running boards (I assume aluminum board mounting was the same???), I have attached photos and a sketch. There were 7 smaller bolts that held the board to the body/sill and two longer bolts thru the body brackets. Also two marzden nuts and bolts to the rear fender...

Forgot to add that my foot pump looks different from the new one in the ad. Mine looks a lot like a vacuum diaphragm on a distributor, with a small round pedal pad sticking thru the floor. The pad is about 1-1/8” in diameter with some shallow concentric circles on it. Mine was seized, and I...

Here’s the one that my Ranch Wagon had from since I found it in 1989.

Here’s a picture of one I took long ago in a pretty nice original car. I will go out by on the garage and take a picture of the one in my ‘53 Ranch Wagon.

Some photos of my ‘46 Mercury attached. It was a pretty nice original car to start with, so all the original clips were reused. I made a mistake and put the weatherstripping on after installing the doors, and I didn’t want to remove them like you did to install the pieces at the hinge area. I...

Lots of folks aren’t aware that there was approx. 1/8” welting between the door frame and the garnish moulding all along the garnish (except along the bottom of the moulding. See the picture of an original ‘46 Merc. My Merc was a pretty nice original car and it had the welting. I used the...

I’ll add that the stainless divider at the front of the glass run has some allowance for adjustment. Holes in the inner door frame at the bottom are slotted, and the screw at the top goes thru a slotted tab at the top. So you’ll have some fore and aft movement in that glass channel. I pushed the...

On my ‘46 Mercury, I put the glass in last. Regulator and door latch mechanism first, then channels and felt pieces. Then the glass. Obviously check for smooth operation and no binding. I used lots of white lithium grease on all the moving metal connections. I recall that the felt/stainless...

‘40-51 Leftovers Selling some leftovers for a guy who had a ‘50 convertible. All items plus shipping. 1) 8BA oil filter housing. Good condition, no cracks at mounting holes, no fittings $20 2) three door hinges $30 3) later Stromberg carb with vacuum port for loadamatic. Good shape $60 4) new...

I will add that the last set of hoses I bought from Dennis Carpenter didn’t really have the correct dogleg in them as described above (centerlines of radiator and water pump outlets are parallel);rather, they just had a slight angle/bend in the hose. This made the hoses a bit too short. They...

I will add that the last set of hoses I bought from Dennis Carpenter didn’t really have the correct dogleg in them as described above (centerlines of radiator and water pump outlets are parallel);rather, they just had a slight angle/bend in the hose. This made the hoses a bit too short. They...

Just the obvious stuff… push the hose as far as you can in one direction. I usually put the hose on the radiator and push it as far to the front of the car as I can. I do that with the hose clips “on” but out of the way. Then I try to work it over the inlet end of the water pump by twisting the...

My 1917 touring that I’m just starting on has all its its original body wood in decent shape. Maybe 80-90% of it is reusable, but that may change as I get further into dis-assembly. What products are best for restoring small areas of rot or damage, and what is best to use for filling original...

Agree with rotorwrench’s suggestions, and would add that if anything will be stored where mice and insects will have free reign (barn, shed, most garages), be sure to securely block off EVERY opening… oil breather, exhaust manifold, carb/intake, etc. Keep the spark plugs installed after...

I quit using Stabil in my Fords decades ago, and just siphon out old gas. So I’m pretty sure it was it caused by gas stabilizer chemicals. But maybe I did add some??? I sometimes use it on lawn equipment, so I might have had it around. But it was bizarre how destructive it was to brass.

Another little startup trick I use on my ‘32 (assuming you have a ‘33 Detroit Lubricator carb) is to take the top half of the carb off (2 screws), and pour gas thru a small funnel directly into the top of the float bowl. Do this thru the hole where the 3/8” brass tube in the top half of the carb...

A long shot, but my ‘32 wouldn’t run and I pulled the fuel pick-up from the gas tank and it had dissolved! All the brass tubing and cups associated with the hydrostatic gas gauge had been eaten and were GONE below the fuel level in the tank. There were little pieces like spider webs of brass...