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I'm going to buy the material from Classtique. No one makes a '36 coupe headliner, that I'm aware of. I will take the car and the new headliner material to an automotive upholstery shop and have them use the old headliner for a pattern.

Does anyone know how many yards of the wool broadcloth material it takes to make a headliner for a '36, 5-window coupe?

A good friend of mine had a very early '32 chassis, maybe chassis #3 and it was the earliest surviving chassis. Long story and I don't want to bring up hard feelings but it went to England when he sold it. It should have stayed here but it was turned away.

That is correct. There is a tiny hole on the back side of the lock cylinder. I noticed that it was there about a hour into this job. I thread the wire right through where the key goes in and out that tiny hole. The rest was a piece of cake. I figured that has to be the way it's done so I did it...

I put a piece of mechanics wire right through the front of the lock cylinder and it came out the back of the cylinder. I then used masking tape and taped the wire to the square shaft of the cylinder and used the wire as a guide to line up the cylinder shaft. It turned out to be pretty easy.

I have a '31 Victoria. I'm 6'1", 215 lbs. Size 11.5 shoe. It is very hard for me to get in and out of, even at the age of 46. I'm also a jogger in pretty good physical condition. I love model A's and all the body styles. However, for me the Early V8's are much easier to get in and out of and...

So if I come to this, do I sleep on the couch in the shop office or the spare bedroom in the basement?

Evidently, unbeknownst to me, Redneck snapped a photo of me and my family working on our pickup.

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That is a neat item. Thanks for posting the ad for it Don.

I put my '37 shift lever on the '39 transmission or series 78 transmission case. Looks fine and who besides a few of us would know the difference.

I figured and I'm fine with that. I'd rather make it really, really good than deal with some mediocre steering. The dash is coming out soon for a refinish, while the column drop is loose I'll put the car up on the lift and remove the column and box. Michael is going to get more of my money...

I must be a real dumb ***. I've rebuilt a few of the Ford 3 speeds and have had nothing but success. I've even changed cluster gears and input shaft gears to accommodate taller rear axle gears. I drive an early V8 more often than most of the folks on here. Somehow after thousands of miles in...

1937 steering box. I've rebuilt and adjusted them many times. I have one that I have adjusted as far as the screw will turn and I still have enough play in the steering wheel that I can't stand. Tie rod and drag link ends are tight. Pitman arm is not loose. The king pins are tight. The steering...

I will give this a try. Thank you.

Do you have voltage at the coil and condenser? You could check to see if the points are opening and closing with your voltmeter if it is analog style. You should see the needle bounce. Kind of a PITA with the helmet style distributor. Your condenser should ground to a bolt on the timing cover.

As a heads up, it won't ship until next week, probably Monday. I have an order waiting also. Boss man is at Hershey. The cat back at the shop is limited to mouse duty. The other staff took the week off. I feel like I could be his PR man?

You can do it. Actually, I installed mine 3 times. When it wasn't working properly I removed it two more times and re-installed. So a total of 3 installations. That's part of what ate up so much of my time.

Thank you!

The key stops and turns back. With the lock cylinder out I took a flat blade screwdriver and turned the lock part of the door latch and I could lock and unlock the door this way. When I install the lock cylinder it seems as if the lock cylinder does not make enough rotation to unlock the latch...