Recent content by sr325

Oh, forgot to mention, motor Mountain are all new float a motor front side and rear. They were loose on my first test ride but I quickly figured it out and tightened them up.

Hi Guy, I recently finished building my Burtz engine and it is not nearly as smooth as I had hoped. Ive got even compression at close to 90 lbs on all cylinders, I had the flywheel and clutch Balanced and the engine pulls strong and evenly through the rpms. Vibration is worst when engine...

Hi Guys, Thanks again for so much helpful input. I just discovered the Burtz engine last night. So, that completely changes everything. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go that route. Which means that once I get into it I'll have everything out and it will be a good time to go through the...

Thanks Guys! Wow! Lots of good info and, Wow! again! That Burtz block looks awesome! When I was a kid, back in the '70's, I restored a coupe and dreamed about updating the engine to make it run more reliably and smoothly. Mine had a Terrible vibration at about 40mph that I had to get through...

Hi Guys, I'm wanting to build a nice touring engine that can handle hilly areas. I live in the hills in Reno. A counter balanced crankshaft seems like a no brainer. And, a high compression (Snyders) head. But, I'm wondering what folks think about the pros and cons of the 5.5 vs 6.1 heads? I'm...

Hi Guys, My 3rd gear slips out, from time to time. Does anybody have any sense of whether this means a full rebuild is required or is it more likely to be something in the forks that can be repaired just by pulling the top of the transmission?

Thanks Guys, I like WHN's response. I think I'll just re-new everything, if I can find a good source for the springs.

Hi Guys, I've already pulled the hubs and backing plates (getting completely new rebuilt backing plates and cast iron hubs). Now, of course, because I Always want to do things "right", I'm thinking of pulling the (front) axel (to get it powder coated) and replace the shackles. Can anyone tell...

Hi Guys, Wow! Thanks for all the good tips. I was finally able to get it off. The trick with two hammers did the job. And, Boy did it come with a loud pop. Wow! I was starting to get Really worried.What a relief! Ok, now I can get on to rebuilding the breaks. Thanks all. Richard

Hey Guys, Has anyone encountered REAL difficulty getting a rear hub off? My right hub came off with nothing but a bit of pressure with a manual puller. The other one won't even come off with a 5 ton hydraulic puller. I even tried heating, though not with a full on acetylene torch. Any ideas...

Hi Guys, Thanks so much for all the invaluable input. After taking it all in and thinking about what I have and what I need and want to use the car for, I've decided I am going to stat with mechanical breaks. It looks like Mike's has complete rebuilt sets, with new cast iron drums, that are...

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the helpful replies. I'm getting that doing the conversion can get complicated and that I need to take things slowly. I've also read that cast iron hubs make a big improvement over the old steel drums. Perhaps that would be a better way to go. My existing drums are...

Hello, I just purchased a 1930 Coupe that came with a set of hydraulic break backing plates, drums, hubs etc. Turns out one pair (of sets) is the early (39-42) type and the other pair is the later (46-48) type. I purchased Les Andrews book Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook Vol. II in which he...