Recent content by rundmt123

Re: A Won’t Start and Stumped So I time the 29 using the timing pin. Always the way I’ve done it. Timing is good. Rechecked the points gap and it’s set right. Pulled the plugs and felt for compression in each cylinder. Seems ok for all 4. Checked spark at the plug gap while out and there...

Re: A Won’t Start and Stumped The distributor is in correctly. I don’t get any cough or belch when cranking the car.

A Won’t Start and Stumped I posted a while ago about blowing fuses after trying to start my A after a transmission rebuild and significant downtime. Turned out to be my starter died and was drawing too much current. That is now fixed but I can’t get my 29 to start. I have spark from the coil...

Thanks for all the suggestions. So far I cannot find it. Eliminated the cutout as The issue. Took off the terminal block and eliminated it. Pulled off the dash and no issue I can find there. Really puzzled. At the point of rebuilding the entire electrical system from scratch.

So my 29 pickup has been out of commission for a few years after my son threw a gear through the transmission housing. Finally getting it back together. Was hoping to start it today. I have an aftermarket fuse block on the starter. When I went to start it I blew a fuse and now have blown...

I know this is a simple question but looking for clarity. I have a 1929 pickup. My shell is black as was original and my crank hole cover is as well. I was at teh MARC national meet for a few days this week and noticed most 28/29 trucks has a nickel or chrome crank hole cover with the black...

Having trouble with a 1928 Fordor and looking for help/ideas. Car has all new brakes/bearings just done a little over a year ago. If you back out out of the garage and drive back forward slowly there is a loud "groan" from the right front wheel. No noise when in reverse but consistent when...

I have a 1929 pickup I’ve had for some time. Quite a while ago I did some significant work on it including having the seats redone by LB. The rear seat sits in place great with the original hardware holding it. The bottom part of the seat does not stay in place at all. In fact I’ve resort to...

I have checked the advance arm movement in the distributor body and it is good. I also did use the NeRex wrench to set the timing. Like you said it gets it pretty close and pretty easily. Will pick up a digital meat thermometer and check on the coolant temp. What should it be roughly?

I lost a little over 2 gallons in antifreeze. I ordered the block tester off Amazon as suggested and will see if it is a head gasket, etc. issue. Hoping I don't have to replace on a brand new rebuilt engine!

First few voyages of a near complete restoration. First real drive the car - 28 Leatherback - overheated terribly. It was the original radiator and I had it checked originally and told it was good. I was spewing fluid after a short drive. Timing was great and so was carb air fuel mix...

Thanks Jim. You are 100% right. After coming so far with the car I was pretty discouraged. I will follow through on your suggestions.

So just about complete with my restoration of a 1928 Leatherback. This forum has helped me greatly in the process and am facing another issue I am having trouble solving. I got the car started twice now. Everything rebuild - engine, starter, generator, etc. The first time it ran but dies...

When I got the car to restore the windshield visor was painted. However I've seen many pictures with the 28 leatherback visor covered in brown vinyl to match the top. What is correct?

So..... Checked the manifold and all gaskets. All good. Went through all the suggested checks made by everyone and the winner is....appears I am 180 degrees out. Went back to timing it again and once my timing pin hit the dimple I pulled the number one plug and the cylinder was dead bottom...