Recent content by rond

Yes

1. Aluminum head? It is standard practice to use hardened washers to keep the bolts from digging into the head. 2. Bolts too long? It is amazing what you will find that some people have done for low dollar repairs.

Your best bet is to contact Jim Guinn at the contact that Dirttrack provided. I sent my fat man wheel to him a couple of years ago and he did a very nice, and reasonablly priced, rim to custom fit it. There are so many minor variations in the rims that I would not take a chance on trying to...

Most any later year will work. On my '16 I wanted to use 5-1 steering gears, so I used the shaft, gears and lower housing from a '27. The nickel plating was weak anyhow, so I buffed the remaining plating off. The only visible difference in housings is the cover. The threads are all the same...

Parts for what? If you are trying to build a car from these parts I would be looking at a 1916. A lot of later parts (particularly the body) will easily interchange. The '14 axle could be used to trade for something else you need, and you could install a relatively cheap later small drum rear...

Triple gears can be a mile apart on balancing as well, even in a set that came from an original transmission

Adding to the gas flow idea. I check gas flow by holding at least a pint container under the carb drain (large white plastic fast food drink cups are nice). Open the carb drain valve and let the gas flow. You should see a steady flow of gas. I let the drink cup get about half full before...

That is also a good indication of a bent (sagging) frame. Relatively common on passenger car frames. Not so sure on truck frames.

It has to be 1925 or earlier. The 1926 roadster body had two opening doors

The leather type is thicker, and may last longer. The important thing is to use some kind of pad between the spring and crossmember.

To set magnet height use a micrometer to check the height from the magnet clamp to the ring gear. You can get all of the magnets within 0.005 really easy this way.

No. I can knock the pins out, box it, and ship via parcel post. It is a steel hood.

Sorry, no. The 1916 is the last of the brass radiators, while the 1917 has the first of the steel radiator shells. The hood profile is totally different

First, You need to remove the firewall brackets and firewall. Once those parts are out of the way it will be a breeze to remove the engine. Second, I bend a small piece of tin to fit under the pan ear, above the frame rail. Spread a little grease on the top of the frame rail, and with the...

Is this the original engine, or does it have a starter? There can be a pretty good size difference in complexity. I agree that it is best to remove the firewall, then you have lots of room to get the engine out.