Recent content by robertarley

Thanks for the replies. While my oil pump looked fine and the gears turned with no excessive play, I was mostly worried about the housing being soldered to the body. One of the reasons that I had to drop the pan in the first place was because the drain plug would not come out for my first...

Well, I finally got my stuck oil pump out, which appears to be in good shape although it is one of the early models that has the housing (can) soldered or brazed to the shaft. It took me quite a while to get the wire screen out since it appeared to be hung up on something...

As an interesting aside, I was browsing through the Les Andrews mechanics handbook Vol 1 and he never mentions the flywheel plate--either in removing or reinstalling the oil pan. However, he does mention the engine dust pans for both procedures. My car has no pans. Should I add another item to...

Thanks for the comments, gentlemen! I'll probably go with the traditional order of things. However, I now have another issue. I used one of the holding gadgets in the side plug cavity to supposedly keep the oil pump from falling out, which in this case turned out to be a waste. When I...

I am a day or two away from reinstalling my oil pan on my recently acquired 1931 deluxe coupe. I am repainting the pan since the previous owner painted it green instead of black. I also discovered, when removing said pan, that there was no flywheel inspection plate. I just got a new plate in...

I appreciate the sentiment, but in this case, it is only practical if one owns everything necessary to MIG weld and knows that they have other uses for it. One must also be able to weigh the cost effectiveness of an original versus a repro. By the time I buy some beat-up old originals...

I don't plan on competing at the top "point" level. Maybe the "touring" or "driving" class, but it isn't a big priority. Still, as I replace the many non-original-type items on my car, I want to use authentic, if not original, parts--that is, unless the originals are beyond rejuvenation...

My 1931 Ford Coupe came with chrome hood latches that are ill-fitting and not even correct for a Model A. (They have a double finger grip and probably came off of an RV.) I've since learned that they should be shiny black (lacquered or powder-coated) However, my first Google inquiry came up...

I finally stumbled across that fact while playing with the keyed handle after I reinserted it into the passenger-side door cavity. (Only after finally getting the non-keyed handle out of that same door) I still have a minor issue that is worth explaining in detail so others will know how to deal...

Well, never mind! I took a chance with a rubber mallet by first tapping the handle inward just in case the shaft was frozen in the lock mechanism due to rust. Afterward, I resumed pulling, and voilà, it finally came free. Thanks for responding, all.

There is no pin that I am aware of. Once I remove the two bezel srews it allows the bezel to rotate, but there is no access to the internals at all. The operating shaft of the door handle is locked into the internal door mechanism. That mechanism is held in place by four scews in the door...

@Bigpillo65 Thanks for the hint on the key. I'll get some graphite when I go to Home Depot tomorrow. However, my bigger issue is getting the non-keyed handle out of the passenger side door. It seems to be stuck hard. Any thoughts on that issue? I want to avoid hurting the paint. Cheers

I am a fairly new owner of a 1931 Deluxe Coupe. The person I bought it from was only an accidental intermediary and not an enthusiast. He only bought it as a favor to the family of the previous elderly owner. Somewhere along the line, a previous owner had removed the two door handles and...