Recent content by rmyers

Thanks that's what I thought. It is an Quail cap with the tabs. I will try a thicker gasket or doubling up. I appreciate your help.

I just put a new engine in my 1928 Model A and while I'm driving it is fine, but the radiator cap vibrates around and comes loose. When I get back home to put it in the garage it starts to bubble out of the radiator cap. Is there anyway I can tighten the cap down (thicker gasket maybe), I bought...

I found out that it went for 19500 at auction. My friend did not get it, he wasn't really looking for one but if it went for the right price he would've gotten it. Thanks for everyones input.

A friend of mine is looking at a 1933 Ford truck. It is red/black fenders, yellow wire wheels and it looks like its all original. I'm not sure how many miles are on it but I do know it was a frame off restoration in 1984. It has a 50hp motor. I was wondering if anyone could give me a ball park...

I finally got my 28 on the road and it is a joy to drive. I had a friend follow me home so I could check my speedometer (which is 5 mph fast) and he told me the drivers side back wheel is wobbling. How do I go about checking to see if it is the rim that is bent or axle or just bearings out of...

I just wanted to give everyone an update. I got the car started and I didn't really do anything special. I rechecked the point gap and then it started. I have to agree with some of you, I think it was flooded. Thanks for everyones help, this is a great sight for information.

Is there a possiblity that the distributor could be in 180 out? I looked at a drawing in a book and it showed the points at a 9 o'clock position if #1 cylinder is 12 o'clock. My points are between 10 and 11. Also one book shows the gap as being .015-.018 and another book shows it .018-.022, we...

After fighting with the radiator clearance and finally clearing it I went to start the car and now it won't start. We are getting fuel and we also have spark. We did the timing with the pin and checked the point gap. I'm not sure where else to go. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I just wanted to let everyone know that I ended up adding 2 additional pieces of rubber and that made the clearance perfect and also brought the hood into better alignment. I know that is probably not the right answer for the problem but it works for me. Thanks to everyone for their input, this...

I will look at the crossmember to see if it is indented or not but its kind of looking like I'm going to have to remove some metal off the fan blades. I have to figure out the motor mount thing first now before I go any further. I don't think it was hitting when I installed the engine so I'm not...

I checked with Snyders about the radiator height, because that is what I thought of also but it is the same height. Actually its a little taller. The top pipe is in the center and the bottom pipe is offset on the drivers side and a little angled to that side also. The top pipe is the only one...

Where do I find the frame number? I'm not sure about the return tubes, where are they located?

Well I took apart the front motor mount (no easy task) and the springs checked out ok (1-9/16"). When I put it back together I noticed that the bottom of the crank pulley is hitting the bottom of the motor mount. I think the engine is sitting back to far but I don't know how that could happen...

I will check the size of the springs and also the distance between the water pump shaft and the radiator core. I have over an inch at this point I'm sure.

Here are some pictures of the problem and then of the car I'm working on. Thanks for the help with the pictures. The resize link you sent was great!