Recent content by ppower

Roert, I am looking at the same issue and have decided that the engine speed must be no more than 2,200rpm. that is 32mph/1000rpm. Our car is lighter than a Model A so there is enough power with a 6:1 compression ratio head. The suspension and the brakes on our car are capable of that...

Do you have any idea where I might find a Model B counter balance crank?

MAG Thanks that was the information I was seeking. I know that I am going to have to grind number 4 big end journal, but if all the other journals and bearings are sound, I think I will not bother with the weld on weights. The extra machining and bearing casting would make it an expensive job.

What I was asking about was anyone's experience of using welded weights such as offered by Dennis Parinio here http://www.modelaparts.net/special.htm/counterweightacrank.html. Has any one done this?

Has anyone experience of fitting the weld-on weights to produce a counter balanced crankshaft? If so did it distort the crankshaft ? (The existing crankshaft is running true and does not need regrinding.) Has anyone first hand experience of the benefits/problems? Thanks

To complete the story. The car is now running again. An already owned engine had forged pistons, which look properly engineered, with relieved areas around the wrist pin and horizontal and vertical expansion slots (as compared to the pistons fitted at the time of the blow up, which were...

Simonpie. Thanks for that; some interesting lateral thinking. The fitment of a Model A engine was a cheap fix when problems arose on the original engine, so I doubt I will be going down that route, but it is food for thought.

Contrary to most of the posts above, I would grasp the opportunity. As I told my son and his friends when they drove to Mongolia, when everything goes wrong just think "this is the part I will talk about when we get home".

I have used the one piece "elastic band" seal that Snyder supplies on a Model A. It worked fine. Since the outside diameter is sealed with silicon, it might work on your Model B engine if you are prepared to machine the area where the slinger was fitted to the diameter used on the Ford Model A...

What is the best way to remove the rusty scale which accumulates in the water jacket? A screw driver through the various holes can reach some of it and dropping the engine face down onto a concrete floor dislodges some more. Is there a chemical treatment which will loosen the deposit rather that...

I had the same problem. It was a crack between the exhaust valve and cylinder. It extended down into the exhaust port. It was stitched and the block was silicon sealed.

Many thanks, Presumably the reason for the change has been lost in the mists of time.

I am rebuilding my Ford model A engine using an engine block from an engine I bought as spare. The two engines have different crankshafts which seem to be interchangeable. The main difference is the shape of the diagonal webs although the crankshaft with the stouter diagonal webs has circular...

Should the weir into the timing gear chamber really be lower that the weir into the back 2/3 of the tappet chamber?! Does anyone have a photo?

I would suspect either the float is punctured, or the petrol valve operated by it is not sealing. If there is petrol inside the float, your can find the hole by putting it in a glass and looking for the bubbles.