Recent content by PaintShaker

Good news. Problem solved. I used three drill bits, each 1/64 in. larger than the next. I was concerned about the drill bit binding, when under power, and causing more problems, so I opted to go manual. I lathered everything up with rust dissolver and, by hand, worked each bit through the...

So I went to install my new horn rod. I can't even come close to getting it started down the bore in the steering column. There's quite a buildup of rust in the bore. I'm not sure yet how far down the rust goes. I need to increase the ID by about .030 in. to get a few thousandths clearance for...

I will take a look at what Third Gen has to offer. I thank each contributor for their input.

What would be wrong with using Loctite and skipping the cotter pin all together? By the way, I'm quite sure all of the fasteners, including the nuts, are original. I did have some experience woking on another Model A, and these fasteners look the same. I'm surprised no one has come across this...

I've thought about using grade 8 washers. As I recall, they are thicker than regular washers. Thanks for that suggestion.

There are no washers under the nuts. I thought about trying to solve the problem with washers but I'd have to use two or more to get the nut where it belongs. Did ford use some extra thick washers?

I'm looking over my newly purchased 31 pick-up. Many of the fasteners have a situation where a castle nut is positioned so far down on the threads that the cotter pin will never contact it. Maybe somebody used the wrong length bolt but even the special pitman arm bolt has the same problem. All...

The Pop-Out ignition seems to be a very scarce item. Is there a substitute switch that is reliable, looks good and is priced reasonably? I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks.

I believe, at one time, there was an individual or company offering for sale a complete set of fasteners for the body and chassis of a Model A. As I recall the set had all the right grades, lengths and finishes for every nut, bolt, washer and cotter-pin required. I would appreciate it if someone...

Has anyone used the Bob Drake u-joint in a Model A? If so, was it a success? In the past some have mentioned the possibility of interference with the enclosure. I want to learn about the experience of others before moving ahead. Thanks.

Nice solution. Thanks very much.

My original u-joint has a lot of wear. It has rivets and I believe is the type that can't be rebuilt. I plan on getting used original that can be rebuilt. That brings up another question: Are there good rebuild kits available or are there quality issues with those as well?

I would really appreciate it if someone could please tell me the recommended method for removing the throwout (clutch release) bearing from the hub it's mounted on. The wall of the hub is pretty thin and it looks like it would be hard to press the bearing off without distorting the end of the...

Is there a reproduction Model A u-joint on the market that's considered good, or are they all poor quality imports?

Could someone tell me what exhaust manifold gland rings are? I'm guessing they might bridge the gap between manifold and block. My engine doesn't have any such thing.