Recent content by oljoe001

Thank you every one for you input. it turns out that the spring wasn't the problem at all. I took it apart and check oil pump , distributor, distributor gear shaft housing and the mesh between the cam and dist drive gear. all where fine. It turns out that I had over tightened my distributor bolt...

I have changed it with a little longer one and it works till the engine warms up. then the cam shaft starts moving back and forth ( I pull the side cover off and can watch it while it is running. only does it when its warm. the tension of the spring less the warmer the engine.

I put a Stipe cam (which I love) and Dan McEachern gears in. The motor runs so much smoother than the reground cam that I had in it. also the laminated gears where to tight and out of round. the new gears have correct backlash. but now the spring on the cam plunger works till the motor warms up...

just curious as to some of you long time builders thoughts on the subject. I have had a lot of poorly made parts lately.Just wondering if one was better than the other? (not trying to stat a war) lol

Well after my last post this morning i started to pull the distributer pulled cap and roter button was checking the back and forth movement and noticed a little black piece of something just barely on top of one of the tabs (did not see it before) I got it out and it was (I think) a peice of the...

Just push down on the end of the advancing arm and if you can move it down pretty easy you will see the problem if not it must be an issue with just mine. I will be taking it out today and will let you know what I find maybe spring is week?

Well took plugs out and replaced with 1500 watt lasers inject water, fire the laser and instant steam wah lah a steam engine......... Sounds good huh....hey you had to ask lol

Could be just a blown head gasket. If your lucky

Thanks Guys had not even considered the center hole if it were to loose you would have an inconsistent point gap (better check it as well) the problem I am having is the tabs are to thin. I thought maybe they made a thicker plate. I will take it out and tig silicon bronze and machine it to the...

I converted My Model a over to run on water!!! "sssshhhhh" Dont tell anyone I dont want the gas companies to find out. As I fear for my life. lol

I have a snyder's 6.1 on my motor with snyder's reground cam, lighten flywheel and balanced crank stock zenith (jets correctly sized) and mine runs a lot stronger than my friends who has a 5.5 head. Of course it could be a lot of reasons why. But more compression should result in more horse...

yes but where the advance rod hooks to it it allows the plate to **** sideways which in turn allows the points foot to ride at an angle on the cam. thus wearing faster

I installed a new distributer plate and was checking my points and notice quite a bit of play. after reading some older post I guess there were 2 different thinknesses where can I get a modern thick plate or will I have to make my plate thicker? Joe

What I have noticed about the original verses new (I have only seen to new beds) but the new ones I seen have a wider and flatter bead than my original bed. mine is a little skinner and has a little more arc. It would be hard to notice with only seeing one bed. If you can post some pictures it...

That would depend on what you consider repairable I have a welding shop and have repaired unrepairable blocks before. I preheat them and tig weld silicon bronze on outside repairs and different types of nickle and / or stainless to inside the valves or combustion area. you might think about this...