Recent content by Ned

There is nothing wrong with your steering. What you describe is normal for the Model A steering setup. In a turn, the inner wheel must turn sharper than the outer wheel. In a left turn, the left wheel turns sharper than the right wheel and vice verse. The drag link connects the pitman arm...

Web page for the UK starter. 6 Volt model also available. http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/920/category/139

Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5252 Torque = Horsepower x 5252 / RPM

I am in Jarrettsville in northern Maryland between Baltimore and York, PA. Measured 4" of rain at 4 PM, wind is picking up. We still have power. Have a generator and several gas cans gas, if I need more there is about 12 more gallons in the A's. Our daughter lives in North East Maryland...

Always roll the car forward, not back, between the first and second measurement.

I was trying to add a table of rpm vs speed, didn't work.

I covered my walls with 1/2" plywood rather then sheet rock. Easy to hang thngs on it.

It is probably valve tick. No way to completely get rid of it with solid lifters. I have also heard ticking form the distributor as the cam touchs the points block, especially with a B distributor cam. Don't worry about it.

Did you replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel? If not, it may be dragging.

Brattons has an oversized throttle shaft if you don't want to install bushings. Snyders and others probably carry it also.

Take a small 6 or 12 volt bulb and attach clip leads to both terminals. I like to use a 12 volt bulb used in modern car dome lights. With everything turned off, hook one lead to the starter post and the other to the disconnected yellow wire end. It should not light up unless you have a short...

I needed to remove the studs in on old engine. Soaked the studs in PB Blaster for a few days, then used a wrap around stud remover and a pointer type torque wrench so I didn't get too heavy handed. Tapping on the top of the stud with a hammer while cranking on the wrench seemed to help. I...

I have used the adjustable bar in MikeK's post several times on A's and Jeeps. Really nice since you can change the angle as you ease the engine in.

I have seen this happen - "If it ain't broke, fix it til it is". My best trouble shooting tip is to only change one thing at a time. Works for hardware or software.

Put the worm gear in the oven at about 300 degrees for 15 -20 minutes. It will expand and should slide on the sterring shaft. This also works with the gear on the front of the cranskshaft.