Recent content by mgm60

Turns out my problem was most likely that last post from Terry, OH. I did learn a thing or two about 46-48 backing plates and parking brake arms. My backing plates have the correct brake shoe clips as Ford only made the two tiered clip pre-war. The parking brake lever is also different pre and...

Thanks for those closeup shots of both sides 19Fordy. I've circled in white the clip I'm missing and I need two, one for each side. Please let me know of anyone who might have a set of 39-48 rear backing plates laying around that still have these clips. I've looked online and a few vendors...

Fellas thanks for the picture of the Bendix brakes but they won’t help me. What I have are the early 1939-41 Lockheed brakes. The picture Kube provided is what I have and I have the wrong hold down springs for the rear brake shoe and parking brake lever arm. Here’s a picture from Vanpelt that...

19Fordy the arm looks short because it’s bent 180 degrees because of coming into contact with the drum. I had to remove it heat it up and straightened it. Kube, thanks for the photo. I searched all over and could not find anything showing that clip. Where in the world am I going to find 4 of...

Glennpm I believe those are later Bendix style brakes so that stacking sequence won't work on my original style setup. No room behind the shoes for the parking brake hardware and my lever arm has to swing forward freely to actuate the forward shoe.

Running late 40s original style backing plates on my 36 Roadster. About 2 years ago the drivers side parking brake level came off while driving the car. Destroyed the lever and both brake shoes. Repaired and replaced with original style parts. Today it almost happened again on the same wheel...

Abandoned the solder job as access is impossible and started the radiator removal this weekend. Pulled the lower and upper hoses, removed the alternator and the most stressful part took the hood off. The hood was a three man job but we managed to get it off without any mishaps. Here are a few...

What are my odds for success if I aggressively clean this area down to bare metal and use JB Weld High temp liquid epoxy? I could create a dam and fill that whole cavity between the reinforcing metal strap and the threaded insert and let it harden for a couple of days. Worse case, that fails...

Thanks for the suggestions. To clarify the situation, the radiator did not crack underneath the reinforcing metal strap. The threaded insert that holds the bolt broke loose from the radiator housing where it had previously been soldered. The coolant drained from around the threaded insert.

Today I removed one of my head bolts that was weeping a little coolant also installed new temp sending units in both heads. When I went to drain some coolant my project went South. This 36 Coupe is new to me so I was surprised to see it did not have a drain ****. In its place is a brass...

JayChicago, I've tested it out of the tank so I can see the full range of the float arm while connected to the gauge. Also tested the gauge and it is good. The needle pegs to the top of the range when the sending unit wire to the gauge is grounded.

Rather than start a new thread on this often discussed fuel gauge, sending unit problem, I'll jump back into this one. Thanks to Mickd for the technical explanation in how the sending units work with the gauges. But has anyone figured out how to get the modern sending units to work with the old...

LM44S, I'm dealing with my own Fuel Sending Unit problems and sharing what I've read. If the wire at the Sending unit isn't connected to anything, the gauge should read empty or bottom of scale. If you ground that same wire the gauge should read full or top of scale. If those two are true your...

1935-36 Ford Transmission covers, Dick Spadaro reproductions. I know the original 35 and 36 have differences but think these were designed to fit either one. New Old Stock. I removed the cutout from the one to try it in my car but my floor pans are not original form so these covers won't fit...

Apparently this won't be as easy as I thought. In addition to solving the depth on the face of the wheel to allow the hubcaps to seat, it also has to be deep enough the rear hubs won't interfere, so pretty much zero offset or negative. Before heading off to the junkyard I've searched around on...