Recent content by Mad Mac

I totally agree.

Yes my original post was about the merits or otherwise of soldering versus braising. Thats what I wanted to find out. What is the bracket made of? Will it take heating or even welding?

Thanks Brent, the "best way" for me is a permanent fix. I guess that involves removing the tank and either soldering or braising the bracket, after filling the tank with water or C02. Any tips on soldering compared with braising or maybe some other process? I already fitted the special dash...

The gas tank on my 1929 RPU has a slight leak where the steering column clamps onto the bottom of the tank. I am going to remove the tank and mend the leak, but I am not sure how to do that. What is the best way? I tried to block it with JB Weld but that did not work.

My 21-inch Model A tyres were made in Chile. They are at least 25 years old and still going strong. I see no reason to replace them at present.

Hi again, I am not a robot – I am someone who has a lifelong love/hate relationship with his 1929 Model A Roadster pickup (owned by me for 55 years). Since my last post I decided to take a break and think about the problem for a few days. Recently I have done more things to identify the cause...

Thanks Guys, for your encouraging comments (and your patience!). I will think about the problem for a few days and go back over your helpful posts again, before I do anything more. Cheers, Mac

Reply to Blockhead: It was just temporary - Please refer back to post #29 Reply to Bobbader: Thanks Bob, This morning I temporarily disconnected the e-brake rod and found that the drag on that wheel is still there. I don't know whether it was there previously. Yes its an original steel drum...

Thanks Jim, But if the brake rod is adjusted too short, that wheel should have better braking action (it hardly has any). My next move is to disconnect the e-brake rod in case that is causing the slight drag.

Thanks JFranklin, I will respond to those questions when I get a chance. In the meantime I have prepared a chart to record the situation at each wheel before and after, I start using the " brake adjustment board" and make any changes to the brake adjusting screw on each wheel. This is following...

Thanks Bob, You might have a point. The shoes were not arced to the drum and also I did not taper off the ends of the new linings as recommended by some. But I find it hard to believe that my problem (as described in the above posts) can be attributed solely to those two omissions (especially...

Thanks J Franklin, During assembly I worked the service brake lever back and forth several times to confirm that the cam was expanding and contracting the shoes properly (it was). And after installing the drum I temporarily disconnected the brake rod and worked the lever again. This got...

The bearing was removed, checked and replaced. It is perfect.

Thanks Rob, I hope you are wrong about that, as I want to avoid removing the drum again if possible. I used a jack to lift the upper shoe onto the roller after the springs were installed. An unusual method, but it gave precise and effortless control as the spring-loaded shoe was lifted up and...

Thanks Bob: The e-brake was not re-lined - it still has the old lining, which didn't need replacing.