Recent content by Ken MA

The rear Hoodaille shocks on my town sedan are leaking from the needle valve. The string packing is not much help. Some Fordbarn threads suggested using Teflon for packing the valve but the only Teflon packing I can find is 3/32 dia., and much too thick. Any suggestions to make the Teflon work...

The doctor says the Town Sedan has the same problem as most 92 year old's, weak flow! The pencil filter in the gas valve was pretty much plugged and not allowing the tank to easily void. The filter was not the brass or stainless screen type, but made of acrylic fibers and phenolic resin, so...

I drove the A 30 miles a week ago without problems after taking it out of hibernation. My spring ritual is to grease chassis including distributer cam . The points were too close when I checked them on the roadside, but re gapping did not help much. Even moderate grades were difficult to climb...

I was on a tour in the Berkshires. If I was at the bean Farm I would still be limping home. That's a 3 1/2 hour drive modern from here!

Driving my 30 Town Sedan, stock engine, carb and ignition, on a 130 mile club tour today over some hilly terrain. Reaching the top of a long climb the engine started to stumble, felt like the ignition was shorting out. On the down hill and level motor ran fine for a while but condition got...

The flywheel is stock Model A. The disc was from Macs with some Chinese writing on the box. I still have the disc I replaced, marked USA with 8 springs around the spline. I may reuse that one. Hopeful that some other issue did not create the disaster. I will post a photo when I collect all the...

Driving the 30 Town Sedan to the Belltown Motorcar Meet and suddenly I was coasting. Thought the car had slipped into neutral but would not engage any gear. After the tow home I opened the inspection plate and found the clutch disc demolished with the springs at the bottom of the bell housing...

I shot some penetrating oil into each open valve via a flexible tube through the plug hole today. Might free up a sticking valve. I will let it soak overnight and start the car tomorrow.

The noise is not pronounced when I use the stethoscope on the distributer , the distributer retaining screw or the oil pump retaining screw, more audible on the timing cover side cover bolts. I have to question what gets hot enough to go from quiet to rapping in ten minutes. I will check the...

This winter I replaced a leaky rope seal with modern style. Had to drop the pan and remove timing cover for that job. I also had the valve cover off to check valve clearance. All in spec. Last year I noticed heavy carbon on plug #1, and repaired a leaky intake manifold, changed to a hotter...

Already ran the motor without fan belt to isolate the noise with no effect, also used dowel in timing pin hole but made no difference Ken

I'm tracking this tapping sound that starts after the engine runs for about 10 minutes. Checking with stethoscope sound is most noticeable near right side of timing cover.Loud tap on every other crank revolution.I suspect exhaust valve #1 or #2 but I would expect noise to diminish as the valve...

To Ryans comment, was the engine thumping when accelerating or climbing a hill? Common wisdom suggests mains but would crank or rod end play sound the same?

I cant 'be sure the rods are not bent, the engine is in the car. The babitted rods were bought from a well known machine shop in Ohio and installed by a local rebuilder. Major reason for this rebuild was that the original rods had no babbit left on the thrust surfaces 018-.035clearance. Now #2...

Trying to track down a thumping noise on this motor accelerating under load. Motor was rebuilt 2 years ago and driven 2000 miles.Pulled the pan and made some measurements Reground Crank .020 Rebored with new pistons .060 Re-babbited mains .0015-.002 new babbit rods .002 Crank end play .009...