Recent content by Hook

Marvel-Schebler replacement carburetor for Ford Model A. Complete. Removed from a good-running 1930 Model A pickup years ago and stored indoors. Carburetor has not been run recently and is being sold as a good rebuildable, complete unit. No visible cracks or broken mounting ears. $175.00

I use it on most everything I plan to paint that might rust or is rusty. About half the time I use POR-15, and the rest of the time I use rustoleum or something else. I think it does a great job prepping the metal before applying paint. Follow the directions and I think it works great.

Will it start right up after it quits? Do you have to pull the choke to restart? What if you set the throttle up a notch or two so the idle is faster when stopping? I had the same problem but had multiple problems.

Amazon for $20.62 for 16 oz can. Walmart and Grainger have it on line. Just Google the name.

I think we all agree the problem is the voltage is only 1.2 volts at the moveable arm. My suggestion to try moving the key in the ignition switch and few times and checking to make sure the voltage doesn't drop at the moveable arm is that it doesn't require taking anything apart to check it...

If you don't have 6+ volts at the moveable arm when the points are open, you need to move upstream to find out why. I had that same problem with the engine quitting and finally got help here. When they directed me to the voltage at the points arm I started to get to the problem. Try turning...

I think you're looking at the brake switch. The pop out we are talking about is the switch that your key goes. It doesn't matter which type you have for now to do the troubleshooting. Do as post #2 says. Then we can help you after you check the voltage at the points. Make sure your battery...

I took mine apart and found it loaded with grease. Cleaned out the grease and works great. It is a switch like 2manycars posted purchased from one of our good vendors. The replacement our ordered didn't show good continuity either, so I returned it and took apart the older one I had. I had...

Same as #2. Switched to Grundy and saved 30%. Would not have checked them out except for a similar question when renewal time.

I agree with George in post #9. Make sure it's not electrical by simply checking the spark next time it quits. I had a problem like yours, towing the A home twice. I kept changing parts in the distributor including putting in a complete new one with all new parts. Finally found a thread here...

I had a similar problem with the points I have purchased from multiple sources. I finally took my dremel tool to the plate to enlarge the adjustment enough to get the points to line up properly. The problem is with the points being sold from the large box companies. I didn't try Napa, but...

Do as others have suggested and do the diagnostic checks before replacing any more parts. I had a similar problem and finally found a thread here on checking the voltage at the points arm, open and closed. I had a bad switch that wasn't giving me proper voltage at the points, but was very...

Tom W suggested one a few years ago that I bought. They last a long time and not heat. Try to get one with natural color as they can be very bright white.

I bought a replacement lower seat spring a few years ago, and it came with the loops in them and the overhang is minimal. It seems to be a very good reproduction of the original. Can't remember where I got it from, but can search my records if you need it. Also can take pictures of the loops...

Had the same problem and used zip ties. I didn't know the bracket was used. Mitch/Pa, where on the firewall does the other other one go? Thanks for the help! I learn something every day reading here.