Recent content by Gufshoz

Hooray! I got the wheel on and torqued the nut to around 100 ft/lbs. I put in an axle shim and I think that is not a permanent fix. The thought of replacing the rear axle is just overwhelming for me. I would have to trailer the car to someone capable and experienced with axle replacement...

I don’t think I need a shim. If anything, the drum is sitting about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too far out from the backing plate. I’ll disassemble it again and search for the missing nut. It feels like the brakes are seizing as I tighten the axle nut. I can’t find any other spots from something...

Key is ok. I’ve had it on and off several times and the result is always the same.

Why is it that what appears to be a straight forward, simple fix can open up head-scratching problems? Help and suggestions wanted. I have tube shocks on my '30 coupe that are supported by steel plates that are through bolted to the backing plates. While doing a routine lube job, I noticed that...

I also use carpenters chalk (the refill for a chalk line). The real key is to make certain the drums are true. Dust the inside of the drum with chalk then rotate the shoe against the drum. The high spots are easy to see and just sand them down. Repeat until the high spots are gone...

A question for the forum: I have a small amount of wiggle (not the death wobble) in my steering, so I was going to tune the steering box. The steering is very light and I adjusted the toe-in. When I attempted to adjust the thrust bearing, it was as tight as the bolt would allow. I wanted to...

I was under my car, getting ready to adjust my toe in, and I noticed that the tie rod turned easily by hand. Not the rod itself, but the ends. Should these be tightened or replaced. How much movement is normal? Replace the internal components with something like Snyder"s E-Z Steer? Thanks

So this morning I put Castrol; Axel; GL-5; SAE 85W-140 into my transmission. After driving for a few miles and shifting quite a bit...the problem is solved. I went with nkaminar's suggestion for Mitchel transmissions and overdrives. I was a little concerned about their products being...

Yup. Stock ******.

I just finished changing all of the fluids after a 2000 mile trip in my A. No issues during the trip, but now I can't shift into 2nd and 3rd without severe grinding. I can get into all gears from a stop. My brother, who has a lot of mechanical experience, suggested that my new gear lube is...

Thanks for the replies. I'm probably missing something basic. I believe that my horn is being grounded by the headlight bolt rather than the horn button completing the circuit. By using the paper to isolate the brushes, each wire has continuity through the field coils to the brushes. Keeping...

Hey everyone. I have an issue with a Spartan horn that was given to me by a friend. It works perfectly on my bench using the current 2 horn wires, but when I ground it to my A by mounting or just touching the car, it won't work. I'm currently using an old beeping horn that is not connected to...

I have the same LED's and the same problem. They were great when I first installed them, but they started flickering on the low beams. When I removed them I noticed that the solder bumps; where they touch the socket contact points, were quite worn. I added solder to the bulb contacts and...

These responses have really been educational for me. I had assumed that I would just be using the advance like I did with the stock head. I almost always ran about 2/3 to 3/4 advance. Now I’ll try running in the first1/3 of the sector. Big thanks to everyone.

Thanks guys. That was my first guess because I had never driven with the full advance. Full retard and she starts before she turn’s over completely then I normally keep the spark at about 2/3 advanced and that seems to be her sweet spot. I do retard a little if she lugs at all.