Recent content by GHerr1957

I have a 57 F100 with a 3 speed transmission. The speedometer cable only spins in reverse. It does not turn as the truck is moving forward. Has anyone ever experienced this problem?

As a follow-up, I have been working with American Eagle Radiator and they are very helpful. They do not have a direct fit for my truck but they are very flexible in working with me to find a radiator that will fit and making alterations to it such as changing mounting brackets, and inlet...

Bill, Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it. I did stop at the local radiator shop and it was $450 to recore the original radiator so it looks like it is going to be an aluminum replacement. Gary

I did check with one shop in town and they said they were not certain if they could get a core for it and if they could, it would be about $450 to do the job. That is $150 more expensive than a new aluminum radiator. LMC has a radiator listed for $470 plus freight which would be another $20...

The radiator in my 57 F100 is totally shot after 55 years of use so it it time to replace or repair it. My truck is not a show truck so I am not concerned whether the radiator is original looking. I am having problems finding manufacturers that actually make after market radiators to fit this...

Thanks Low Rider and Ole Don. Ole Don, What exactly are you referring to when you indicated that I should modify the outlet tubes on the rockers? Crimp them shut to force oil back through the rocker assembly? thanks again.

I am rebuilding a 292 Y block and the camshaft in the engine was out of tolerance regarding the lobes so I am replacing it. The new camshaft has the grove instead of the cross drilled holes that was in the engine. The cam bearings in the engine now are in great shape. Can I just use the same...

I am getting ready to order rings and bearings for my Y block rebuild and I would like to have confirmation from some engine guys as to what I have here. Head casting numbers ECL 6090 and ECL 6090A These are from a 55 272 from based on information from a previous posting on this site...

Thanks for the 12 point socket tip. It worked like a dream. I have been wrenching on Chevy engines for about 30 years and have never run across a bolt that needed a 12 point socket to remove. 6 points have always worked for anything I was working on.

Again, thanks to all for the advise. Bill, I agree with you that installing hardened seats is a waste of money for a engine that is driven very infrequently. However, this truck is going to be restored and driven frequently so I think I will spend the extra money and get the hardened seats...

The head on the bolt is absolutely round. Nothing for a socket to grab onto.

I am attempting to rebuild a 57 - 272 and I am down to taking the crack out. There is a rear seal block that needs to be removed before I can take the rear main caps off. There appear to be two bolts holding the cap on, but there are no hex heads on the bolts. Is there a special tool needed...

Thanks Bill, I have pretty much made up my mind that I am heading to the local machine shop and having them recondition my heads with new hardened seats. Gary

Thanks to everyone for their advise. I called Carpenter today and they confirmed the heads do not have hardened seats. So I am taking my heads to the machine shop to have seats installed.

Bill, Forgot to answer your direct question. Yes, it is a Y block.