Recent content by fordmerc7

I agree that the numerical age is unimportant. Physiologic age obviously doesn't keep octogenarians and nonagenarians out of cars. IMHO, the most important thing is mental age: if you have any doubts, don't do it for your sake and the sake of others.Recognize that if ANY episode or problem...

Comments appreciated. I've wondered about the grease, but I didn't know how to fully remove it and if the grease is the problem I'd assume it must be totally removed. I have tried to check all wires in and out for grounding to no avail. The turn signal switch is connected to the cowl via a...

Indicator light does not flash, but is faintly glowing all the time! Turn signals work as expected when lever moved. I have this in my ‘29 Town sedan. No problem for many years, until recently. Please offer suggestions for troubleshooting. I have used 2 different signal switches. I have tried...

I did it ! The horn works ! I pulled up the rod about 12 inches so I could remove horn button (undo the prongs). Kit from Snyders had wire with horn button contact end installed. Threaded wire through column to determine length ; stripped wire from 1 3/16 inch above bottom of rod. Re-thread...

My horn wire literally fell put after removing light switch. Rod won't come out without moving the steering column. Why can't I replace the wire without moving the steering column? (It looks as if I should be able to do this.)

A collateral Signal Stat problem: my red warning light stays on when flasher off and warning flasher switch "off". Green turn signal light works fine and when it should. Red light on unless battery disconnected! Is this fixable?

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“29 starts with difficulty,” runs” and sputters irregularly for a minute, then dies. Problem may have existed to a minor degree before head gasket replaced for leak but seems worse now. Spark advance affects it, but not significantly nor consistently, and the engine dies anyway. I have pulled...

Hopefully images attached which show rotor and rotor off under circumstances of points open and closed I do believe that I know how to set timing and have done it repeatedly.The cam is held consistently in place with screw tightened. I have had some help from a friend with 7 Model A’s...

Hopefully images attached which show rotor and rotor off under circumstances of points open and closed I do believe that I know how to set timing and have done it repeatedly.The cam is held consistently in place with screw tightened. I have had some help from a friend with 7 Model A’s...

I'm trying to post images per alexiskai - that might help, but I haven't figured out how to get my images into the post yet. I'm working on it

I have attempted re-timing the distributor with the spark lever all the way up. I have used a test light in the process. The distributor is the one that has worked flawlessly in the past. The distributor fits onto the head properly. My problem is that at TDC, my distributor will not look like...

Distributor rotor points between the contact points in the distributor body when at TDC as determined by timing gear indent. At this time the points are open. What is wrong? Background: car ran slightly less than perfect when head gasket leaked. New head gasket installed. Now engine runs...

Neither manifold nor carb were touched since it ran perfectly. I lack an adapter for the compression test so I’ll look for (or create) one to do it; I lack equipment for the leak-down test so I will defer that for this moment. The valve issue is ?relevant: I noted that one of the exhaust valves...

I did regap the points after replacing the head gasket. I can do it again. The issue of distributor shaft rubbing on the gasket is something did not consider since the shaft seemed to be free before I put the head back on, and I really hope there is another solution forthcoming since I really...